Toshijima Island

Toshijima is the largest of the islands scattered across the waters off Toba, a genuine, working fishing island that offers one of the most authentic glimpses of traditional maritime life in the whole Ise-Shima region. Reached by ferry from Toba in around twenty to thirty minutes, it feels a world away from the mainland tourist sights: a place of small harbours, steep lanes climbing between weathered houses, drying nets and, above all, the enduring culture of the ama, the women free-divers who have gathered abalone, spiny lobster and shellfish from these waters for countless generations.

The island supports several fishing villages, chief among them the ports of Kadokado, Wagu and Toshi, linked by narrow roads and paths. Life here still turns on the sea and the seasons, and Toshijima is famous throughout the region for the quality of its seafood — the spiny lobster (ise-ebi), abalone, oysters and fish landed here are prized on menus across Ise-Shima and beyond. The best way to taste them is to stay overnight at one of the island's minshuku, the family-run guesthouses where hosts serve lavish spreads of just-caught seafood grilled over coals, an experience that is as much about hospitality and place as about the food itself.

Toshijima is also one of the strongholds of ama culture, and the island preserves customs and beliefs tied to the divers' dangerous work. Small shrines, protective symbols and local festivals reflect a community that has long depended on the sea and sought its blessings. Visitors with an interest in this vanishing tradition find Toshijima a living counterpart to the ama exhibits in Toba's museums — here the culture is not displayed but simply lived.

Beyond its fishing heritage, the island offers simple natural pleasures. There are quiet beaches for swimming in summer, coastal paths with views across Toba Bay to the mainland and neighbouring islands, and hilltop lookouts reached by short walks. The pace is slow, the air is salt-fresh, and the absence of crowds is part of the charm. Cycling or walking between the villages, pausing at a harbour to watch the boats, is the natural rhythm of a day on Toshijima.

Because it remains a real community rather than a resort, Toshijima rewards travellers who come with curiosity and a willingness to slow down. It is not about ticking off attractions but about experiencing a way of life shaped entirely by the sea, tasting seafood at its absolute freshest, and enjoying the beauty of Toba Bay from an island vantage.

Access is by the Toba City ferries, which depart from the Toba Marine Terminal a ten-minute walk from Toba Station and call at the island's ports several times a day; it is essential to check the timetable, as service is geared to island life rather than tourism. For an overnight stay, arrange a minshuku in advance. For anyone seeking the authentic, seafaring soul of Ise-Shima away from the pearl resorts and shrine crowds, Toshijima is a memorable and rewarding escape.