Shishiiwa Observatory

Perched near the top of Mount Misen on the sacred island of Miyajima, Shishiiwa Observatory is the reward at the end of the island's aerial tramway and one of the great sea-panoramas of western Japan. The name means 'Lion Rock', after the crouching lion-shaped boulder that sits beside the terrace. From the deck the Seto Inland Sea spreads out in every direction, scattered with dozens of green islands, the ships that thread between them leaving slow white wakes, and the coastline of Hiroshima Bay curving away to the north. On exceptionally clear days the mountains of Shikoku are visible far across the water.

Getting up here is half the pleasure. From the Momijidani valley behind Itsukushima Shrine, the Miyajima Ropeway runs in two stages: a small circulating gondola climbs the wooded gorge to Kayatani, where you change to a larger aerial tram that swings high over the treetops to Shishiiwa Station. The ride takes about fifteen minutes and, in late November, passes over a canopy of flaming maple leaves — Miyajima is one of the finest autumn-colour spots in the region.

Shishiiwa is a genuine viewpoint in its own right, and many visitors go no further. But the true summit of Mount Misen, at 535 metres, lies a further thirty-minute walk along a rocky trail past the Misen Hondo hall and the Reikado, where a sacred flame is said to have burned continuously since the monk Kobo Daishi lit it more than 1,200 years ago. The wild deer and cheeky monkeys that once roamed the summit add to the mountain's storied atmosphere.

The observatory terrace itself has benches, a small cafe and shop, and restrooms, so it makes an easy, comfortable turnaround point for those not wishing to hike. Come on a clear, dry morning for the sharpest horizon; humid summer afternoons often veil the distant islands in haze. Winter days, though cold, frequently deliver the cleanest air and the longest sightlines of the year.

Because Miyajima is reached by ferry, plan the whole day around the tides and the crossing. From Hiroshima take the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi and then the JR-operated ferry, both covered by the Japan Rail Pass, to Miyajima pier. From the pier it is a walk or short shuttle to the ropeway's lower station. The ropeway costs around 2,000 yen for a round trip; the observatory itself is free once you arrive. Allow at least an hour on top, more if you intend to push on to the summit and back, and remember that the last downward ropeway departs in the late afternoon.