Momijidani Park

Momijidani Park, whose name literally means 'maple valley', is one of the most celebrated autumn-leaf viewing spots in all of Japan. It occupies a narrow, wooded ravine at the foot of Mount Misen on the sacred island of Miyajima, following the clear waters of the Momijidani River as they tumble down from the mountain behind Itsukushima Shrine. For most of the year it is a cool, green and peaceful retreat, but for a few weeks in November it transforms into a cathedral of fire, its several hundred maple trees turning brilliant shades of crimson, orange and gold.

The park's maples were planted deliberately over the centuries to enhance the natural beauty of the valley, and today around 700 trees, including the large-leaved o-momiji and the delicate ito-momiji, form a dense canopy over the walking paths and stone bridges. When the leaves peak, usually in the second half of November, the whole gorge glows as though lit from within, and the vermilion arched bridges over the stream frame the scene like something from a woodblock print. Photographers and painters have been drawn here for generations, and the spot is regularly ranked among the finest koyo destinations in western Japan.

The valley is also home to some of Miyajima's famous wild deer, which wander freely among the visitors, and if you are lucky you may glimpse monkeys higher up the slopes. A gentle path threads the length of the park, crossing and recrossing the river, and requires no particular fitness. At the upper end of the valley stands the lower station of the Miyajima Ropeway, making the park the natural starting point for the ascent of Mount Misen; many visitors combine a stroll through the maples with a cable-car ride to the summit.

Historic ryokan inns are tucked into the trees at the mouth of the valley, and the elegant Iwaso, one of the island's oldest inns, has welcomed guests here since the 1850s. Staying overnight on Miyajima is one of the great pleasures of a trip to the region, because once the last ferries depart the island empties of day-trippers and the shrine, the town and the valley fall quiet and mysterious under the stars.

Entry to Momijidani Park is completely free and it is accessible at any hour, though the maples are best appreciated in daylight. To reach it, take the JR ferry across from Miyajimaguchi, a journey covered by the Japan Rail Pass, and walk about twenty minutes inland from the pier, passing the great floating torii and Itsukushima Shrine on the way. The single most rewarding time to come is early on a clear late-November morning, when the rising sun filters through the leaves, the air is crisp, and you can enjoy one of Japan's most iconic autumn scenes in relative solitude before the crowds arrive on the mid-morning boats.