Mount Misen

Rising 535 metres above the sacred island of Itsukushima, better known as Miyajima, Mount Misen is the spiritual heart of one of Japan's most revered landscapes. The whole island has been considered holy for well over a thousand years, and Misen is its summit and its soul. Legend holds that the great monk Kobo Daishi (Kukai) climbed the mountain in the year 806 and lit a sacred fire during a hundred-day meditation. That flame, the Kiezu-no-hi or 'eternal fire', is said to have burned without interruption ever since inside the Reikado hall near the top, and the water it heats is credited with healing powers. It was from this flame that the Flame of Peace in Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park was kindled.

The mountain is cloaked in a primeval forest that has been protected from logging for centuries, and in 1996 it was inscribed, together with Itsukushima Shrine, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its slopes shelter a rich ecosystem of ancient trees, wild tanuki, cheeky monkeys and the famous free-roaming deer that wander down to the shoreline. Near the summit the forest gives way to a jumble of enormous granite boulders, some balanced impossibly on one another, and passing between the Kuguri-iwa rock gate feels like stepping through a natural torii.

Most visitors take the Miyajima Ropeway, a two-stage cable car that climbs from Momijidani Park through the treetops to Shishiiwa station, where an observation deck already offers a magnificent view. From there a rewarding 30-minute hike along a stone path leads past the Reikado flame hall, the Misen Hondo main hall and the Sankido to the true summit, marked by a modern observatory. On a clear day the reward is one of the finest panoramas in western Japan: the countless pine-clad islands of the Seto Inland Sea scattered across shimmering water, ferries tracing white wakes far below, and the mountains of Shikoku floating on the horizon.

Walkers who prefer their own two feet can choose from three main trails to the top, the Momijidani, Daishoin and Omoto courses, each taking roughly an hour and a half to two hours through the forest. The Daishoin route passes the beautiful temple of the same name and is a favourite for its stone Buddhas and quiet atmosphere. A popular strategy is to ride the ropeway up and walk down, or vice versa, combining the effortless view with the immersion of the forest.

The island is reached by a short JR ferry from Miyajimaguchi, itself an easy train ride from Hiroshima, and the ferry is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. Aim for a clear morning, wear proper shoes for the rocky final stretch, and carry water, as facilities near the top are limited. Combine the climb with a stroll through Momijidani Park's maples and a visit to the floating Itsukushima Shrine below to make a full and unforgettable day on Japan's holy island.