Shirakawa Fountainhead (Shirakawa Suigen)

The Shirakawa Fountainhead, or Shirakawa Suigen, is one of the most celebrated natural springs in Japan and a source of quiet pride in the Aso region. Set in the village of Minami-Aso on the southern side of the great caldera, it is the principal source of the Shirakawa river and pours out an astonishing volume of water, on the order of sixty tonnes every minute, all of it rain and snowmelt that has filtered slowly down through the porous volcanic rock of Mount Aso over many years. The result is water of extraordinary clarity and purity, and the spring has long been recognised among Japan's finest, appearing on national lists of the country's most excellent waters.

The spring emerges within a small, beautifully kept sacred precinct beside a shrine, where the water wells up from the sandy bed of a shallow, transparent pool so clear it can be hard to judge its depth. Fine sand dances where the water rises, and the pool takes on gorgeous blue and green tints in the light, framed by trees and moss. A short, easy path loops around the site, and the atmosphere is peaceful and faintly reverent, reflecting the traditional Japanese regard for pure water as something close to holy.

What makes a visit interactive and memorable is that the water is free for the taking. Visitors are welcome to fill bottles directly from designated outlets, and it is common to see people arrive with large containers to stock up, since many locals swear the water makes superior coffee, tea, rice and even shochu. Tasting it fresh at the source, cold, soft and utterly clean, is a small but genuine pleasure and a highlight for children. A cluster of small shops near the entrance sells local produce, sweets and items made with the famous water.

The spring is a fine example of how deeply the volcanic landscape of Aso shapes daily life, providing not only dramatic scenery but also the pure water that irrigates the region's rice and supports its food culture. It also served as a filming location for a popular anime, adding a modern layer of appeal for some visitors.

Shirakawa Suigen lies in Minami-Aso and is conveniently served by the Minami-Aso Railway, whose station is named after the spring and stands an eight-minute walk away; by car it is about an hour from central Kumamoto. A very small entry fee helps maintain the site. Allow around half an hour to walk the pool, taste and bottle the water and browse the shops. Cool, clear and serene, the fountainhead is a lovely, low-key stop that captures the gentler side of the Aso landscape.