Sengokuhara

Sengokuhara is a spacious highland district in the northern part of Hakone, spread across an open plateau at around 650 to 700 meters elevation on the western slopes of the caldera. Once a lake bed and later grazing land, it has developed into one of Hakone's most refined resort areas, combining luxury onsen ryokan, a remarkable concentration of art museums, and sweeping natural scenery. Its cool air, open skies, and rolling grasslands give it a distinctly different feel from the tightly folded onsen valleys lower down the mountain.

The district's hot springs have a long history, with recorded use dating back to the 18th century, when thermal water was diverted from the volcanic zones of Owakudani and Ubako to feed the area. Large-scale water diversion projects over the years turned Sengokuhara into a substantial onsen resort, and today it is known as a high-end retreat, dotted with elegant inns and boutique hotels that take advantage of the space and views the plateau affords.

Sengokuhara is also Hakone's cultural quarter. The district and its surroundings host a striking cluster of museums, including glassware, fine-art, and literary-themed collections set in landscaped gardens, making it a natural base for a day of art and relaxation. Interspersed with these are cafes, restaurants, and the broad grassy slopes that give the area its signature look.

A notable fact is the district's famous expanse of susuki pampas grass, which blankets a hillside on the western edge of the plateau. In autumn the tall grasses turn a shimmering silver-gold and draw crowds for their photogenic glow, one of Hakone's classic seasonal sights, while in summer the same slopes are deep green. The controlled maintenance of this grassland, including periodic burning, keeps the open landscape intact.

The visiting experience is leisurely and spacious. Rather than a single street, Sengokuhara is an area to explore across a half-day, moving between museums, grassland viewpoints, cafes, and onsen. The terrain is gently rolling and much of it is accessible, with museum grounds and roadside stops easy to reach, though the grass-field walking paths are unpaved and sloped. The open, uncrowded feel is part of the appeal, offering a calmer counterpoint to the busy loop stations.

Autumn is unquestionably the peak season, when the pampas grass glows and the surrounding forests color, and clear autumn days can also bring fine mountain views. Summer is refreshingly cool at this altitude, ideal for escaping the lowland heat, while winter is crisp and clear and spring brings fresh green to the plateau. Late afternoon light is especially rewarding across the grasslands.

Getting there is by bus. From Hakone-Yumoto Station, take a Hakone Tozan Bus heading toward Sengokuhara and Togendai and ride up onto the plateau, alighting at one of the district's stops after about 30 minutes. Sengokuhara also connects easily to Togendai on Lake Ashi, just a few minutes away by bus, so it slots neatly into a loop that combines the lake, the ropeway, and the northern highlands. Its blend of art, onsen, and open scenery makes it one of Hakone's most rewarding districts for a slower, more indulgent visit.