Okage Yokocho

Okage Yokocho is a lovingly recreated Edo and Meiji-period townscape set at the midpoint of the Oharaimachi approach to the Naiku, the Inner Shrine of Ise Jingu. Compact but densely atmospheric, it gathers dozens of shops, restaurants and stalls into a warren of traditional wooden buildings, and it has become one of the most popular and photogenic spots in the whole Ise region, a place where the festive spirit of old-time pilgrimage is deliberately kept alive.

The district was created in 1993 by the venerable confectioner Akafuku, whose main shop stands nearby and which has sold its signature mochi to Ise pilgrims since 1707. To mark its 300th anniversary the company reconstructed a block of characteristic Ise architecture from the Edo and Meiji eras, reviving old building styles and reviving the celebratory mood of the historic approach. The name Okage Yokocho carries a double meaning: okage refers both to the okage-mairi mass pilgrimages of the Edo period and to an expression of gratitude, a nod to the debt owed to Ise Jingu and to generations of pilgrims.

Within its lanes, more than fifty establishments trade in food, crafts and souvenirs. Visitors can graze on an array of Ise and Mie specialities: skewers of grilled seafood, Ise udon noodles, tekone-zushi, croquettes, savoury snacks and, above all, Akafuku's soft red-bean mochi, freshly made and best enjoyed with a cup of green tea. Sake and craft-beer stands, pickle shops, ceramics and folk-craft stores, and confectioners round out the offering, while a small performance space and seasonal events add to the carnival atmosphere.

The architecture itself is a draw. Narrow alleys open onto small squares, wooden storefronts display noren curtains and hanging lanterns, and the recreated townscape rewards slow wandering and photography. Because it condenses so much into a small area, Okage Yokocho can grow crowded, particularly on weekends, holidays and around the New Year pilgrimage season, but the throng is part of its cheerful appeal.

Okage Yokocho sits within Oharaimachi, just a short walk from the Uji Bridge entrance to the Naiku, so it is effortlessly combined with a visit to the shrine, either building an appetite beforehand or celebrating afterward. Entry is free, and shops keep daytime hours. For travellers who love the sensory pleasures of Japanese street food and the romance of a bygone townscape, this bustling little quarter is an irresistible complement to the solemn grandeur of Ise Jingu, and a delicious reminder that pilgrimage, in Japan, has always mixed the sacred with the sociable.