Nanzoin Temple

Nanzoin, in the hills of Sasaguri just east of Fukuoka, is famous for one astonishing sight: the Nehanzo, a reclining bronze Buddha stretching 41 metres in length and standing 11 metres high, weighing close to 300 tonnes. It is said to be the largest bronze statue of the reclining Buddha in the world, depicting the moment the historical Buddha entered nirvana, lying serenely on his side with his head resting on one hand. Unveiled in 1995 before some 1,300 monks from Myanmar and Nepal, the statue is more than a spectacle: sealed inside it are relics said to include ashes of the Buddha and two of his disciples, gifted by Myanmar in thanks for Japanese aid, along with sand gathered from all 88 temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage.

Nanzoin is a Shingon temple with an unusual history. It originally stood on the sacred Mount Koya, but in 1886, during the anti-Buddhist fervour of the early Meiji era, local authorities threatened to destroy it; a decade-long campaign of public protest eventually secured its relocation to Sasaguri in 1899. Today it serves as the first and head temple of the Sasaguri Pilgrimage, a local circuit of 88 sites modelled on the famous Shikoku route, and it draws more than a million visitors a year. Despite that popularity it remains a genuine working temple, and the priests take its sanctity seriously, having in the past closed the grounds to tour groups after visitors treated the site disrespectfully or, in one notorious case, won a lottery jackpot after praying here and triggered a rush of luck-seekers.

A visit is a small pilgrimage in itself. From the station the path climbs gently past streams, mossy statues and rows of small stone Jizo and Fudo figures, many draped in red bibs and knitted caps left by devotees, before opening onto the great reclining figure. Visitors buy strings of colourful prayer beads and loop them around the Buddha's outstretched hand to make a wish. Beyond the statue the wooded grounds hold a main hall, a cave shrine, waterfalls used for ascetic training, and countless smaller altars, so it is worth allowing a good hour or more to explore. The setting, deep green and rich with birdsong and running water, is as memorable as the statue itself.

Reaching Nanzoin is refreshingly easy for such an out-of-the-way marvel: the JR Sasaguri Line runs directly from Hakata Station to Kido Nanzoin-mae in around twenty-five minutes, and the ride is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. Wear comfortable shoes for the slopes and steps, dress modestly, keep your voice down and put photography second to respect. Do that, and Nanzoin offers one of the most extraordinary and least crowded experiences in the whole Fukuoka region, a colossal image of peace hidden in a quiet mountain valley.