Mount Wakasugi

Mount Wakasugi (Wakasugiyama) rises 681 metres above the town of Sasaguri, just east of Fukuoka city, and is celebrated as much for its ancient forest as for its views. Long regarded as a sacred mountain and a place of spiritual training - it lies within the temple-dotted landscape of Sasaguri, home to the famous 88-temple pilgrimage that mirrors Shikoku's - Wakasugiyama today is a beloved destination for hikers, nature lovers and anyone seeking a green escape close to the city.

The mountain is designated a 'forest therapy' base, and its slopes are draped in towering cedars, some of great age and girth. The most revered are the giant 'Married Couple Cedars' (Meoto-sugi), a pair of colossal ancient trees along the trail whose mossy trunks and soaring canopy give the forest a hushed, cathedral-like atmosphere. Walking the well-tended paths beneath them - cool, fragrant and alive with birdsong - is a restorative experience in itself, quite apart from the reward waiting higher up.

That reward is the view. Near the top lies an open field known as Wakasugi Rakuen, a grassy clearing that suddenly reveals a magnificent panorama: Hakata Bay shining in the distance, the sprawling urban areas of Fukuoka City and Sasaguri spread out on the plain below, and the ridgelines of the Sangun mountain range receding on every side. As dusk falls the lights of the city ripple across the lowland, and the meadow becomes a quiet, uncrowded spot to take in a nightscape far from the usual tourist viewpoints. From the true summit, further outlooks take in Yakiyama Pass and the sacred cone of distant Mount Hiko.

Wakasugiyama suits a range of visitors. A forest road climbs well up the mountain, so those short on time or energy can drive most of the way and walk a gentle stretch to the lookout, while keener hikers can tackle the moderate trails from lower down for a fuller half-day on the mountain. Either way, wear proper shoes, carry water, and time your visit for a clear day - the bay and city stand out best when the air is dry, especially in autumn when the forest colours turn.

Getting there is easy from Fukuoka. The JR Sasaguri Line runs from the city out to Sasaguri, from where a taxi or drive up the forest road brings you toward the summit area and its trailheads and camp ground. Combine the mountain with Sasaguri's other draws - the great reclining Buddha of Nanzoin, one of the largest bronze statues in the world, and the pilgrimage temples scattered through the hills - and you have a rich day of nature, views and spirituality just a short hop from central Fukuoka.