Kamado Shrine

Homangu Kamado Shrine sits on the slopes of Mount Homan, an 829-metre peak northeast of Dazaifu that has been revered as a dwelling place of the gods since ancient times. The mountain was one of the great centres of Shugendo mountain asceticism, and the shrine's origins are traced back some 1,350 years to rituals performed here for the protection of the state and for safe passage of envoys sailing to and from the Asian mainland. The shrine has two parts: the lower shrine, or Gegu, at the foot of the mountain where most visitors go, and the upper shrine, or Jogu, at the very summit, reached by a demanding hike rewarded with sweeping views over the Chikushi plain.

The deities enshrined here, chief among them the goddess Tamayori-hime, mother of Japan's legendary first emperor Jimmu, are associated with the bonds between people, and over the centuries Kamado has become one of Kyushu's most famous shrines for love, marriage and good relationships. Young couples and hopeful singles climb here to pray for romance and to buy the shrine's celebrated charms, which come in soft pinks and heart motifs and are considered some of the prettiest omamori in Japan. There is even a modern glass-walled observation hall and cafe where visitors can rest and enjoy the view, an unusually contemporary touch for such an ancient site.

What truly sets Kamado apart, though, is its setting in nature. The shrine is one of the finest spots in the Fukuoka area for autumn colour, and in mid to late November the maples surrounding the halls turn brilliant shades of crimson and gold, drawing photographers and evening light-up crowds. Spring brings cherry blossom and fresh green, while the quiet of the surrounding forest and the sound of the wind through the trees give the place a genuinely sacred, otherworldly feel that the busier Dazaifu Tenmangu below cannot match. Weathered stone steps, moss-covered lanterns and glimpses of the plain far below all add to the atmosphere.

Reaching Kamado takes a little effort, which keeps the crowds thinner than at Dazaifu's main shrine. From Dazaifu Station the lower shrine is a long uphill walk of around forty minutes, so many visitors take a local community bus or a taxi from the Dazaifu Tenmangu area; the summit shrine is only for those equipped for a proper mountain hike. Allow at least an hour for the lower shrine and its grounds, more if you plan to climb. Combine it with Dazaifu Tenmangu and the Zen garden of Komyozenji for a rich half-day exploring the temples and shrines of the old western capital, ending here amid the maples as the light softens.