Kusasenri-ga-hama

Kusasenri-ga-hama, usually shortened to Kusasenri, is one of the most photographed and peaceful landscapes in the Aso caldera, and a perfect complement to the raw drama of the nearby Nakadake crater. The name means roughly 'grassland of a thousand ri', and it is exactly that: a broad, gently rolling meadow filling the floor of an old, extinct crater basin on the flanks of Mount Aso, rimmed by low volcanic hills and open to a huge sky. Where Nakadake is barren and violent, Kusasenri is soft, green and pastoral, and the contrast between the two, so close together, is part of what makes Aso so special.

In the wetter months, two large shallow ponds form on the plain, mirroring the sky and the peaks of Aso, and their still surfaces make for beautiful reflection photographs, especially in early morning and at sunset. Horses and cattle graze freely across the grassland, part of the region's long tradition of open pasturing on the fertile volcanic soil, and their presence lends the scene a timeless, almost storybook quality. Visitors can walk out across the meadow on informal paths, and in season pony treks operate from the roadside, offering an easy and memorable ride across the plain that appeals especially to families and first-time riders.

The grassland changes markedly with the seasons. Fresh green covers it in late spring and summer, golden hues arrive in autumn, and in winter it can be dusted with snow or subjected to the traditional controlled burning, the 'noyaki', that farmers use to regenerate the pasture, a practice that has shaped these hills for centuries. On clear days the smoking cone of Nakadake rises directly behind the plain, so a single view can hold both the serenity of the grassland and the menace of the active volcano.

Across the road stands the Aso Volcano Museum, which explains the geology of the caldera and offers live camera feeds from inside the active crater, a useful and safe alternative when the rim itself is closed due to gas. Cafes and rest stops nearby make Kusasenri a natural place to pause, eat and take in the panorama during a tour of the mountain.

Kusasenri sits on the Aso Panorama Line, the scenic road that climbs toward the Nakadake crater, so it is easily combined with a crater visit. It is reached by the shuttle bus from Aso Station on the JR Hohi Main Line, or by car, with a large car park beside the museum. Allow about an hour to walk the plain and enjoy the views, longer if you ride or visit the museum. Whether under summer green or autumn gold, Kusasenri offers one of the great gentle landscapes of Kyushu.