Jozankei Onsen

Jozankei Onsen is Sapporo's backyard hot-spring resort, a small town of ryokan and bathhouses set deep in the gorge of the Toyohira River, only about an hour southwest of the city centre yet a world away in feeling. Wrapped in steep, forested cliffs and threaded by rushing water, it lies within Shikotsu-Toya National Park and offers the classic Japanese pleasure of soaking in mineral-rich waters while gazing at wild mountain scenery, an experience that draws Sapporo residents and travellers alike throughout the year.

The hot springs were, by tradition, discovered in 1866 by a travelling monk named Miizumi Jozan, after whom the town is named, and a statue and small shrine honour him today. The waters here are sodium chloride springs, said to warm the body deeply and soothe tired muscles, and they feed the baths of dozens of ryokan and hotels as well as several public bathhouses. Many inns offer day-use bathing for those not staying overnight, and the town is dotted with free or inexpensive foot baths and hand baths where you can rest beside the river without committing to a full soak.

Jozankei is at its most spectacular in autumn. Through October the maples and other broadleaf trees lining the gorge turn brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold, and the walk along the river and across its bridges becomes one of the finest short leaf-viewing outings in Hokkaido. The Futami Suspension Bridge and the riverside promenade give some of the best vantage points, and the contrast of scarlet leaves against the clear river and dark cliffs is unforgettable. In winter the scene transforms again, with heavy snow blanketing the roofs and forests, and the pleasure of an outdoor bath while snowflakes fall becomes the main event. Spring and summer bring lush green and cool river air, along with hiking and the nearby dam parks.

Beyond the baths, the town makes a good base for exploring the upper Toyohira valley. Just upstream lies the Hoheikyo Dam, whose walk-in reservoir is famous for autumn colour, and the surrounding hills offer trails and viewpoints. The town itself is small and walkable, with souvenir shops, cafes, and the sculptures and kappa water-imp figures that have become a local mascot, referencing an old river legend. It is a relaxed, unhurried place, more about soaking, strolling, and eating well than about ticking off sights.

Getting to Jozankei is easy and does not require a car. Direct buses run from Sapporo Station and from Makomanai subway station, taking about an hour and winding up into the gorge, and many ryokan offer shuttle service for overnight guests. Because it is so close to the city, Jozankei works equally well as a half-day escape, a relaxing overnight, or a stop en route to Lake Shikotsu and the wider national park. For visitors to Sapporo who want to experience a genuine Japanese onsen town without a long journey, and especially for anyone in Hokkaido during the October leaf season, Jozankei Onsen is the natural, and thoroughly rewarding, choice.