Hoheikyo Dam

Hoheikyo Dam lies deep in the Toyohira River valley beyond Jozankei, at the entrance to the Shikotsu-Toya National Park south-west of Sapporo, and it has become one of the region's most popular autumn viewpoints. The graceful arch-type concrete dam holds back a calm, turquoise reservoir ringed by steep, densely forested mountains, and when the leaves turn each October the combination of the jade-coloured water and the fiery hillsides is genuinely breathtaking.

The dam is recognised on national lists of scenic waterside sites, counted among Japan's Top 100 Waterside Forests and Top 100 Lake Dams, and its reputation rests above all on its autumn foliage. Because the site sits high in the mountains, the koyo peaks here in mid to late October, and for those few weeks the narrow valley fills with visitors from Sapporo drawn by the reflection of the burning slopes in the still reservoir. In summer the scene is deep green and cool, and in the shoulder seasons it is quiet and contemplative, but autumn is unquestionably the moment to come.

Access to the dam is deliberately managed to protect the fragile environment and prevent congestion on the single valley road. Private vehicles are not permitted on the final approach; instead visitors leave their cars or arrive by bus at a lower gate and transfer to a small electric shuttle bus that carries them the remaining distance to the dam itself. This car-free arrangement keeps the air clean and the setting peaceful, and the short ride through the forest is a pleasant prelude to the view. From the dam crest you can take in the full sweep of the reservoir and the surrounding peaks, and walking paths allow closer exploration of the waterside.

One of the great pleasures of a Hoheikyo visit is the nearby Hoheikyo Onsen, a hot-spring bathhouse that has earned an outsized reputation for its excellent Indian curry, cooked by resident chefs. Combining a soak, a hearty curry lunch and the autumn view has become something of a local tradition, and it turns a simple sightseeing trip into a memorable outing. The area also has walking trails and quiet spots to appreciate the water and forest away from the busiest viewpoints.

Reaching Hoheikyo requires a little effort, as it lies beyond Jozankei at the edge of the national park. Most visitors travel first to Jozankei by Jotetsu bus from Sapporo and continue from there, timing the trip to the shuttle's operating hours during the autumn season. Drivers should be prepared for the vehicle restrictions near the dam. Because the site is high and shaded, temperatures are cooler than in the city, so warm layers are advisable even on sunny days.

For anyone in Sapporo during the autumn leaf season, Hoheikyo Dam is one of the finest and most atmospheric viewpoints within reach, marrying an elegant engineering structure, a jewel-toned lake and mountainsides at the height of their colour. Aim for mid to late October, check the shuttle schedule before setting out, and leave room for that famous curry.