Futami Suspension Bridge

The Futami Suspension Bridge is the signature viewpoint of Jozankei, the hot-spring resort tucked into the mountains south-west of central Sapporo. Painted a brilliant vermilion, the pedestrian bridge spans the deep, rocky gorge of the Toyohira River, and from its midpoint you look down at the clear rushing water and out along the steep forested valley walls — a scene that becomes genuinely spectacular when the surrounding maples turn in autumn.

Jozankei sits within the Shikotsu-Toya National Park, and the landscape around the bridge is protected mountain forest. In the koyo season, usually from early to mid-October, the slopes blaze with red, orange and gold, and the bright bridge against the burning foliage and the emerald river is one of the most photographed autumn images in the Sapporo area. The colour arrives here noticeably earlier than in the city, making Jozankei a first stop for leaf-peepers each year. In other seasons the gorge is lush and green in summer, snow-hushed in winter, and quietly pretty in the fresh growth of spring.

The bridge is the centrepiece of the Futami-no-oka promenade, a short and easy riverside walking path that threads through the valley. Following it beyond the bridge leads to Kappa-buchi, a deep green pool bound up with Jozankei's cherished legend of the kappa, the mischievous water sprites of Japanese folklore; the town embraces the story wholeheartedly, and kappa statues appear throughout Jozankei. The full walk is gentle and takes well under an hour, making it an ideal leg-stretch between hot-spring soaks.

Jozankei itself is a classic onsen town, and most visitors pair the bridge with a stop at one of its many hot-spring baths, some of which offer day-use bathing. The combination of a scenic gorge walk and a relaxing soak makes for a perfect half-day escape from Sapporo, particularly in autumn when the whole valley is at its most beautiful. There are footbaths and riverside spots to rest, and the town's ryokan and cafes provide places to warm up.

Getting to Jozankei is easy without a car. Jotetsu buses run directly from Sapporo Station and the subway to the hot-spring town in a little over an hour, dropping visitors within a short walk of the promenade and bridge. Drivers will find parking in the town. Access to the bridge itself is free and open, and the walk is suitable for most visitors, though the riverside path can be slippery after rain or in the snow.

For travellers seeking a taste of Hokkaido's mountain scenery close to the city, the Futami Suspension Bridge is an easy and richly rewarding choice, at its absolute best in October when the gorge turns to fire. Go in the morning to enjoy the quiet before the tour groups arrive, wear comfortable shoes for the promenade, and leave time for a hot-spring soak to round off the visit.