Hakone Mototsumiya (Mount Komagatake Summit Shrine)

Hakone Mototsumiya crowns the summit of Mount Komagatake at around 1,356 metres, a small red-and-white shrine standing alone on open grassland beneath an immense expanse of sky. Its name means 'the original main shrine', and it marks the ancient birthplace of Hakone's mountain faith: this windswept peak, not the lakeside halls below, is where worship of the Hakone deities is said to have begun in prehistoric times, when the mountains themselves were venerated as gods.

Mount Komagatake is a lava dome formed roughly forty thousand years ago in the volcanic complex that shaped the whole Hakone caldera. For centuries the mountain was a sacred site of 'sangaku shinko', mountain worship, and ascetics climbed its slopes to pray. The present Mototsumiya, rebuilt in the twentieth century, continues that tradition on the very ground where it started. Because it sits so high and so exposed, with nothing around it but grass, rock and open air, it has earned the affectionate nickname 'the shrine in the sky'.

The great pleasure of a visit is the setting rather than the architecture. From beside the shrine the land falls away in every direction, opening one of the finest panoramas in the region. On a clear day Mount Fuji rises across Lake Ashi to the west, its silhouette perfectly framed above the water; to the south and east the view stretches over the Izu Peninsula, Sagami Bay and, on the sharpest days, the glinting line of the Pacific Ocean. Sunrise and the hours after a passing weather front are especially rewarding, when the air is washed clean and visibility is at its best.

Reaching the summit is refreshingly easy given the altitude. The Komagatake Ropeway climbs from the Hakone-en resort on the shore of Lake Ashi to the summit station in about seven minutes, sparing visitors the long historic pilgrimage on foot. From the station a short, gentle walk across the grassy plateau leads to the shrine, making it accessible to families and casual travellers as well as hikers. Basic facilities, including restrooms and a small shop, are available at the summit station.

Because the peak is fully exposed, conditions can be dramatically different from the mild lakeshore below. Wind is common, temperatures are noticeably cooler, and cloud can roll in quickly to erase the view entirely; the ropeway itself suspends service in strong wind or heavy weather. A light jacket is wise even in summer, and choosing a clear, calm day transforms the experience from a foggy plateau into an unforgettable high-altitude vista.

Spring and summer bring cool green grass and wildflowers to the summit, while autumn offers crisp, clear air ideal for long-distance views. There are no dense forests or maples up here to change colour, so the appeal is constant year-round and depends almost entirely on the weather. For those who catch it right, standing beside this ancient little shrine with Mount Fuji floating above the lake and the sea shimmering on the horizon is one of Hakone's most sublime and least hurried experiences.