Yashima-ji (Temple 84)

Yashima-ji sits atop the flat volcanic plateau of Yashima, a table-topped peninsula rising 293 metres above the sea just east of central Takamatsu. As the 84th of the 88 sacred temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage, it is one of the most atmospheric stops on the entire route, rewarding the climb with both a serious dose of history and one of the finest panoramas in Kagawa.

Tradition credits the temple's founding to the Chinese monk Ganjin (Jianzhen) in the 8th century, later reorganised by Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the monk whose life gives the whole pilgrimage its shape. The principal image is an eleven-headed Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion. The vermilion main hall, a designated Important Cultural Property, and the surrounding cluster of weathered wooden buildings feel a world away from the city below, shaded by ancient pines and quiet but for the tap of pilgrims' staffs and the ringing of the temple bell.

Yashima's history reaches beyond religion. The plateau was the site of the 1185 Battle of Yashima, a decisive clash of the Genpei War between the Taira and Minamoto clans. Look for the small pond near the temple said to have run red as warriors washed their blades, and the many battlefield legends attached to the surrounding hills. The temple's Treasure Hall displays pilgrimage relics, folk art and objects tied to that turbulent age.

One of Yashima-ji's most loved quirks is the tanuki. A large statue of Tasaburo, a shape-shifting raccoon-dog said to be one of the three great tanuki of Japan, guards a shrine here and is petitioned for happy marriages, family harmony and business luck. Children and couples rub the statue and leave small offerings.

The true highlight for many visitors comes just beyond the temple gate. Walk to Shishi-no-Reiganei, a lion-shaped rock outcrop at the plateau's edge, where a centuries-old tradition invites you to toss small unglazed clay discs called kawarake out over the cliff; watching them sail toward the glittering islands of the Seto Inland Sea is said to carry away misfortune. From here the view stretches across Megijima, Ogijima and the calm sea studded with fishing boats — spectacular at any time, unforgettable at sunset.

Getting to the summit is part of the experience. Pilgrims traditionally climb the old stone-paved henro path, a sweaty but rewarding 20 to 30 minutes through the trees; less energetic visitors can ride the shuttle bus or drive the toll-free skyway. Autumn brings fiery maple colour, while spring dusts the plateau with cherry blossom.

Allow around an hour to combine the temple, the tanuki shrine, the Treasure Hall and the viewpoints, and consider pairing Yashima-ji with the nearby open-air museum Shikoku Mura at the foot of the hill. Come early or late in the day to enjoy the plateau in cool light and relative calm, and remember this is an active place of worship — pilgrims in white are here on a genuine spiritual journey, so keep voices low around the halls.