Togoshi Ginza Shotengai

Togoshi Ginza is one of the longest shopping streets in Tokyo, a lively local arcade stretching roughly 1.3 kilometres through the residential Shinagawa ward. Its name carries a small piece of Tokyo history: after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, the neighbourhood is said to have reused paving bricks discarded from the fashionable Ginza district to fix its muddy street, and in gratitude — and ambition — borrowed the Ginza name too. Dozens of shopping streets across Japan later did the same, but Togoshi is among the most famous and best loved of these '-ginza' shotengai.

Unlike the glossy Ginza it is named after, Togoshi Ginza is unpretentious, affordable and thoroughly local. Around 400 shops line its length: greengrocers and fishmongers, butchers, bakeries, tofu makers, izakaya, cheap-and-cheerful restaurants, clothing and household stores, and a run of stalls that make it a paradise for street-food grazing. The street's signature snack is the Togoshi korokke — crisp, cheap potato croquettes sold hot from several shops — but you will also find yakitori and other skewers, oden simmering in broth, taiyaki fish-shaped cakes, senbei, and seasonal treats, all designed to be eaten on the move.

The joy of Togoshi Ginza is that it is a real, working neighbourhood high street rather than a tourist attraction, so a stroll here shows you how ordinary Tokyoites actually shop, eat and socialise. It comes most alive in the late afternoon and early evening, when residents come out for dinner ingredients, the food stalls fire up, and the narrow street fills with an easy, chatty bustle. Prices are low, the welcome is warm, and it is entirely possible to eat your way from one end to the other for the cost of a single meal downtown.

The experience is casual and unhurried, ideal for travellers who like markets, street food and everyday local colour over big sights. The street is flat and step-free, though it is genuinely narrow and mixes the occasional slow car and cyclist with pedestrians, so watch your surroundings during the busy evening rush. There is no single best season — the arcade works year-round, rain or shine, thanks partly to covered stretches — making it a reliable option even on a wet day.

Getting there is easy but off the JR grid: the Tokyu Ikegami Line stops at Togoshi-ginza Station, whose exit opens right onto the arcade, while the Toei Asakusa subway line stops nearby at Togoshi Station. It is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass, but a Suica or Pasmo IC card works on both lines. Pair it with a broader wander through the low-rise, down-to-earth Shinagawa backstreets for a side of Tokyo most visitors never see.