Shiraito Falls (Karuizawa)

Shiraito Falls, whose name means white threads, is one of the most photographed natural sights in Karuizawa, the elegant highland resort town that has drawn summer visitors escaping the lowland heat since the Meiji era. Unlike a conventional waterfall fed by a single river plunging over a cliff, Shiraito is created by groundwater seeping out of a broad curved wall of rock, so that hundreds of fine strands of water spill down across a face about 70 metres wide but only around three metres high. The effect is less a torrent than a delicate, shimmering curtain, and it is genuinely unlike most waterfalls in Japan.

Because the water emerges from underground springs rather than surface run-off, the falls flow at a remarkably constant volume and temperature throughout the year, unaffected by rainfall or drought. The water is cold and clear, and stepping up to the semicircular basin on a hot summer day, you feel the temperature drop and the air fill with fine mist, a natural air conditioning that makes this a favourite refuge in July and August. In autumn the maples and other hardwoods surrounding the amphitheatre of rock turn brilliant shades of red and yellow, framing the pale threads of water, while in winter the whole scene is often decorated with an evening illumination that transforms the falls into a glowing, ethereal spectacle.

The falls lie along the scenic Shiraito Highland Way, a toll road that winds up into the hills north of central Karuizawa toward the hot-spring town of Kusatsu. A short, flat and well-paved path leads from the roadside parking area to the base of the falls in just a few minutes, passing a clear mountain stream and small food stalls, making it accessible to almost everyone, including families with young children and those with limited mobility. The gentle walk and the reliable, year-round display make Shiraito an easy and satisfying stop.

Karuizawa itself is a sophisticated resort of leafy avenues, boutiques, galleries, historic churches and cool forest, long favoured by Tokyo's well-to-do and by writers, artists and, famously, the imperial family. A visit to Shiraito Falls combines naturally with the town's other highlights, from the tranquil Kumoba Pond and the old Ginza shopping street to cycling along shaded forest lanes. The whole area sits at a comfortable altitude, keeping summers mild and making it one of the most pleasant places in the region to spend a warm-weather day.

Getting to Shiraito Falls is easy thanks to Karuizawa's excellent connections: the town is barely an hour from Tokyo on the Hokuriku Shinkansen. From Karuizawa Station, buses bound for Kusatsu Onsen stop at Shiraito-no-taki in about 25 minutes, from where the falls are a three-minute stroll. Drivers can park at the roadside lot, and many visitors combine the falls with a scenic drive along the highland way and a soak in one of the region's celebrated hot springs.