Shinhotaka Ropeway

The Shinhotaka Ropeway carries visitors from the valley floor of the Okuhida hot springs up into the high country of the Northern Japan Alps, and it is the easiest way anywhere in Japan to reach genuine 3,000-metre alpine scenery without a strenuous climb. The journey is made in two stages. The first, more ordinary cable car lifts you from Shinhotaka Onsen to Shirakabadaira; there you change to the second ropeway, home to Japan's only double-decker gondola, which rises to Nishihotakaguchi Station at 2,156 metres above sea level.

The reward at the top is a panorama that the Michelin Green Guide Japon awards two stars. From the summit observation deck a full 360-degree sweep takes in the jagged crest of the Northern Alps — the spire of Yarigatake, the massif of Hotakadake and the broad shoulder of Kasagatake among them — a view usually reserved for serious mountaineers. On a clear morning the ridgelines stand out in sharp relief against the sky, and the sense of being lifted effortlessly into the high mountains is unforgettable.

Each season transforms the ride. In June and July the lower slopes are a vivid fresh green and alpine flowers appear near the top. Late September into October brings the autumn colours (koyo), when the mountainsides burn red and gold beneath the still-bare rock of the summits — often considered the finest time to visit. In winter the upper station is buried in deep snow, and in early spring the cleared approach roads run between towering walls of snow. Because the top is more than two kilometres above sea level, temperatures there are far colder than in the valley; even in midsummer a warm layer is essential, and the difference can be twenty degrees or more.

Around the upper station there are short, easy walking trails through the Nabedaira Kogen highlands for those who want to stretch their legs, along with a cafe and viewing areas. The lower and middle stations have their own facilities, including a much-loved bakery at Shirakabadaira where you can pick up bread to enjoy with the view. Allow around two and a half hours for the full return trip, more if you plan to walk the summit trails or linger over the panorama.

Access is straightforward despite the remote setting: direct Nohi buses connect the ropeway with Takayama Station in about 90 minutes and with Hirayu Onsen in 35 to 45 minutes, terminating right at the lower cable-car station. The round-trip ticket covering both ropeways saves time and a little money, and on busy autumn weekends arriving early helps you avoid the longest queues. Combine the ropeway with a soak in one of the Okuhida hot springs at the end of the day for a classic mountain outing.