Shido-ji (Temple 86)

Shido-ji is the 86th temple of the Shikoku pilgrimage, standing near the coast in the old port town of Shido in Sanuki City, east of Takamatsu. One of the largest and most impressive of the eastern Kagawa temples, it is easily reached at the end of the Kotoden Shido tram line and offers a rich, atmospheric visit near the very end of the pilgrimage circuit.

The temple is traditionally said to have been founded in the 7th century, making it older than many of its neighbours, and it is linked to the monks Gyoki and Kobo Daishi (Kukai). Its principal image is an eleven-headed Kannon. The grounds are expansive and dignified, entered through a grand Nio gate whose fierce guardian kings glower down at visitors. Beyond it rise the temple's great treasures: a stately main hall, a Buddhist statuary hall, and above all a magnificent five-storey pagoda that soars over the surrounding town, one of the most photogenic structures on the eastern pilgrimage.

Shido-ji is also celebrated for its garden. A designated scenic garden of raked gravel, clipped shrubs, mossy stones and seasonal colour lies within the precinct, considered one of the finest temple gardens in Kagawa and well worth the small entry fee. Ancient trees shade the halls, and the whole complex has the settled, prosperous feel of a temple that has been important to its community for well over a thousand years.

The temple carries a poignant piece of folklore too. It is connected to the legend of the ama, a female pearl diver said to have sacrificed her life to recover a precious jewel from the sea for a nobleman, a story dramatised in Noh theatre as 'Ama'. Her devotion is remembered at the temple, adding a layer of romance and tragedy to the site that resonates with its coastal setting.

Because it lies on flat ground with a tram terminus, good parking and restrooms just a short walk away, Shido-ji is one of the more accessible pilgrimage temples and comfortable for visitors of all ages. Pilgrims perform the familiar devotions — purifying at the basin, offering incense and candles, chanting sutras at the main and Daishi halls, and receiving the temple stamp — while day visitors come for the pagoda, the garden and the sense of history.

Spring cherry blossom and autumn maples are the loveliest times to visit, and the low light of morning and late afternoon flatters the pagoda beautifully. Allow around 45 minutes to take in the gate, the main hall, the pagoda and the garden at a relaxed pace.

Shido-ji sits within easy reach of temples 87 (Nagao-ji) and 88 (Okubo-ji), the final two stops of the whole 88-temple circuit, so it makes an ideal start to a day completing the pilgrimage's emotional home stretch. As always, keep your visit quiet and respectful near the working halls, ask before photographing pilgrims, and take time to appreciate one of eastern Kagawa's grandest sacred sites.