Senko-ji Temple

Senko-ji clings to the rocky slope of Mount Senkoji above the old port town of Onomichi, and its vivid vermilion main hall, perched among huge boulders with the Seto Inland Sea shimmering below, is one of the most beloved views in western Japan. Founded, by tradition, in 806, the temple has for centuries been the spiritual heart of a town famous for its hillside tangle of shrines, temples, alleys and cats, and it makes a wonderful centrepiece for a day of gentle wandering.

The temple is dedicated to Kannon and forms part of the Chugoku 33 Kannon pilgrimage. Its signature Hondo, the red 'Tama-no-Iwa' hall, is built out over the hillside and framed by extraordinary rock formations, including the celebrated Tama-no-Iwa 'jewel rock' that once, legend says, glowed with a mysterious light at night, giving the temple its name (senko means 'flashing light'). A bright red two-storey pagoda higher up the hill is another landmark, and the whole complex is stitched together by stone steps, lookout points and a much-loved bell whose evening toll is counted among the finest soundscapes in Japan.

What elevates Senko-ji beyond its architecture is its setting. The surrounding Senkoji Park is one of the country's top cherry-blossom destinations: in early April hundreds of trees erupt in pink across the hillside, layered above the blue channel of the Inland Sea and its scatter of islands, with ferries and freighters gliding past far below. The panorama takes in the Onomichi Channel, the great Innoshima and Shimanami bridges, and, on clear days, ranks of islands receding to the horizon. It is a photographer's dream in any season, but unforgettable under blossom.

Reaching the temple is part of the pleasure. A short ropeway swings up from near the base of the hill to a summit observatory, from which you can walk down through the temple grounds and the atmospheric old 'Temple Walk' (a route linking some 25 temples) and the Literary Path, engraved with verses by the writers who found inspiration here. The lanes are steep and stepped, dotted with cats, tiny cafes and viewpoints, so wear comfortable shoes; many visitors ride the ropeway up and stroll back down to spare their knees while soaking in the views.

Onomichi itself is easy to reach and fully Rail-Pass friendly: take the JR Sanyo Main Line to Onomichi Station, then either walk fifteen to twenty minutes up to the temple or hop on the ropeway a few minutes from the station. The temple grounds are free to enter, with only the ropeway carrying a fare. Allow about an hour for Senko-ji and its viewpoints, and far longer if you give in to the town's charm and follow the Temple Walk down through the hillside lanes, perhaps continuing to the Shimanami Kaido cycling route that begins nearby.