Ryuzu Falls

Ryuzu Falls, whose name means dragon's head, tumbles some 210 metres down a gentle rocky slope where the Yukawa River descends from the Senjogahara marshland toward Lake Chuzenji. Unlike the sheer plunge of nearby Kegon, Ryuzu is a long, foaming cascade that rushes over broad steps of lava rock. At its base the flow splits around a large boulder into two streams, a shape that early viewers likened to the horns and whiskers of a dragon's head - hence the name.

The falls are among the most beloved autumn spots in all of Nikko. In early to mid-October the maples and other broadleaf trees crowding the banks turn brilliant red and orange, and the white water threading through the fiery foliage creates one of the region's signature scenes. The colour tends to arrive here slightly earlier than in the town below because of the altitude, making it a reliable early stop in leaf-peeping season. Spring brings fresh green and, on the lower slopes, azalea colour, while summer offers cool, shaded refreshment.

A real bonus is the teahouse perched right at the foot of the falls. Its large windows look straight up the split lower cascade, so you can enjoy the view in comfort over green tea and dango sweets, sheltered from weather and crowds. Viewing decks and a short path also let you follow the cascade upward for different angles.

Ryuzu sits at the lower, lakeside end of the classic Senjogahara boardwalk route, which makes it a natural start or finish point for a longer highland walk up to Yudaki Falls and Yumoto Onsen. Many hikers ride the bus to the top and walk the mostly downhill trail to end here at the teahouse, then continue by bus or the Chuzenji sightseeing boat. On its own it is an easy, near-effortless stop suitable for all ages.

The surrounding landscape belongs to Okunikko, the inner mountain region of Nikko National Park, a world of volcanic peaks, marshes, lakes and waterfalls formed by the ancient eruptions of Mount Nantai. Ryuzu pairs naturally with Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls a short distance downhill, and with the Senjogahara marsh and Yudaki Falls upstream.

Getting there is easy. From Tobu-Nikko Station, take a Tobu bus bound for Yumoto Onsen; the ride climbs the Irohazaka switchbacks and skirts Lake Chuzenji, reaching the Ryuzu-no-taki stop in about an hour. The falls, teahouse and viewing platform are just a three-minute walk from the bus stop, with a parking area for drivers. Come early in October if you want the classic autumn shot before the deck fills, and allow extra time if you plan to continue up the marshland trail.