Senjogahara Marshland

Senjogahara is a broad highland marshland spreading across a plateau roughly 1,400 metres above sea level in the heart of Nikko National Park. Its name means field of battle - folklore holds that the gods of Nikko's mountains once fought here over the fishing rights to Lake Chuzenji. In reality it is one of Japan's most important wetlands, a Ramsar-listed site protecting a fragile ecosystem that took thousands of years to form on the bed of an ancient lake.

The marsh is famous for its plant life. In late spring and summer the flat expanse blooms in waves - the white plumes of cotton grass, azaleas, and in late June the striped orange lilies known as nikko-kisuge. By October the entire plateau turns a burnished reddish-gold as the grasses die back and the surrounding larch forest shifts to shining amber, framed by the peaks of Mount Nantai and the Nikko range. This is the marsh's most photographed moment and hiking trails can be busy.

What makes Senjogahara so accessible is its network of raised wooden boardwalks. These flat, well-maintained trails let anyone cross the wetland without damaging it, and they connect a chain of natural highlights. The classic route follows the Yukawa River between Yumoto Onsen at the top and Ryuzu Falls near Lake Chuzenji, passing through open marsh, quiet forest and past streams and cascades along the way. The full traverse takes two to three hours at an easy pace and is nearly level, though the distance makes it a moderate outing.

Because it is a protected wetland, the rules are firm: stay on the boardwalks at all times. Stepping onto the marsh compacts and destroys plant communities that recover extremely slowly at this altitude. There is a visitor centre and rest facilities near the Sanbonmatsu and Akanuma access points, with maps, wildlife information and toilets.

The cool highland air makes Senjogahara a refreshing summer escape and a superb autumn destination, while the shoulder seasons are quiet and atmospheric. Snow closes much of it in winter. It pairs beautifully with the Okunikko waterfalls - Ryuzu, Yudaki and Kegon - and with Lake Yunoko and Yumoto Onsen at the upper end, letting you build anything from a two-hour stroll to a full day of walking.

To reach it, take a Tobu bus from Tobu-Nikko Station bound for Yumoto Onsen. The ride climbs past Lake Chuzenji and takes around 70 minutes; useful stops include Ryuzu-no-taki, Sanbonmatsu and Akanuma. A smart tactic is to ride to Yumoto Onsen at the top, then walk the boardwalk downhill to Ryuzu Falls, saving the climb and finishing near the lake, where buses and the Chuzenji sightseeing boat can carry you back.