Konzo-ji (Temple 76)

Konzo-ji is the 76th temple of the Shikoku pilgrimage, standing in the city of Zentsuji in western Kagawa, a district that is one of the great cradles of Japanese Buddhism. Conveniently reached by JR train and set on flat, accessible ground, it is an easy and rewarding stop that connects to some of the most important figures in Shingon history.

The temple's origins reach back to the 8th century, and it is closely associated with Chisho Daishi (Enchin), a towering monk of the Tendai and Shingon traditions who was born in this very area. That Zentsuji should be the birthplace both of Kobo Daishi (Kukai), founder of Shingon Buddhism, and of Enchin underlines just how significant this small city is to Japanese religious history — a remarkable concentration of spiritual heritage in a few square kilometres. Konzo-ji's principal image is a Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of healing, and the temple belongs to the Tendai sect, a slightly unusual affiliation on a pilgrimage otherwise dominated by Shingon temples.

The grounds are pleasant and well kept, entered through a gate and centred on a dignified main hall and a Daishi hall set among trees, with a scattering of smaller shrines and statues. A celebrated old tree and seasonal blossom lend colour to the courtyard, and the temple has a calm, unhurried feel. Among its stories is a touching legend connected to the mother of Enchin and to the temple's founding, part of the rich web of folklore that surrounds the Zentsuji temples.

Because Konzo-ji sits on level ground close to JR Kinzanji Station, with parking and restrooms, it is one of the more accessible pilgrimage temples and comfortable for visitors of all ages. Pilgrims perform the customary devotions: purifying at the water basin, offering incense and candles, chanting sutras at the main and Daishi halls, and receiving the temple's calligraphic stamp in their pilgrimage book. Day visitors come for the history and the quiet atmosphere.

Spring cherry blossom and the mild light of autumn are the loveliest times to visit, and the temple rarely feels crowded outside peak pilgrimage season. Allow around 40 minutes to take in the gate, the main and Daishi halls and the grounds at a relaxed pace.

Konzo-ji is best combined with the other Zentsuji-area temples, above all Zentsu-ji itself (temple 75), the grand head temple built on Kobo Daishi's birthplace just a short distance away, along with temple 77 and others clustered nearby. Together they make an outstanding half-day or full-day pilgrimage loop through the spiritual heart of western Kagawa, easily reached by local train. As with every stop on the route, keep your visit quiet and respectful near the working halls, ask before photographing pilgrims, and take a moment to appreciate the extraordinary religious legacy of this small Shikoku city.