Koenji

Koenji is Tokyo's bohemian, counter-cultural heartland, a short hop west of Shinjuku on the JR Chuo Line but a world apart in spirit. Where much of the city polishes itself for visitors, Koenji is proudly scruffy, creative and independent — a neighbourhood of second-hand clothes, cramped record shops, live-music venues, artist hangouts and some of the most characterful cheap drinking in the capital. It has long been associated with Tokyo's punk, indie and subculture scenes, and that DIY energy still runs through its streets.

The district is one of the best places in Japan for vintage and second-hand fashion. Dozens of furugi (used-clothing) stores cluster around the station, ranging from carefully curated designer resale to bargain bins of retro Americana, band tees and 1980s oddities; thrifters and stylists come from across the city to dig through them. Interspersed are independent record stores, book and zine shops, cafes and small galleries, so a slow wander turns up something odd and interesting at every turn.

After dark Koenji comes into its own. The lanes and the atmospheric alley near the station fill with tiny izakaya, standing bars, ramen counters and hole-in-the-wall joints, many seating only a handful of people, where drinks and skewers are cheap and conversation flows easily. The neighbourhood is also famous for its live houses — small basement music venues that have nurtured generations of Japanese indie and punk bands — making it a magnet for anyone who wants to catch grassroots live music rather than a polished arena show.

The single biggest reason to plan a visit around a date is the Koenji Awa Odori, held on the last weekend of August. Inspired by the famous Awa Odori of Tokushima, it has grown into one of Tokyo's largest and most infectious street festivals, with tens of thousands of costumed dancers parading through the streets to the relentless rhythm of drums, flutes and shamisen while huge crowds cheer them on. It is hot, packed and utterly joyful.

The experience suits independent travellers who like their neighbourhoods raw, cheap and full of character rather than curated. The streets are flat and walkable but genuinely narrow and, at night, crowded and lively; this is a place to embrace a bit of chaos. Summer brings the festival, autumn the most comfortable evening strolling. Best of all for rail travellers, Koenji is squarely on the JR Chuo and Chuo-Sobu lines, so it is fully Japan Rail Pass friendly, just a few minutes from Shinjuku, and a Suica or Pasmo IC card covers the ride.