Toyotsune (Toriten)

Toyotsune is one of Beppu's best-loved places to taste 'toriten', the fried chicken dish that is the pride of Oita Prefecture and a genuine regional specialty distinct from the karaage found elsewhere in Japan. With its convenient main branch just a few minutes' walk from Beppu Station, it is the ideal introduction to local home cooking for travellers arriving hungry.

Toriten is often described as chicken tempura, and the comparison is apt. Bite-sized pieces of chicken are marinated in a light soy, ginger and garlic seasoning, coated in an airy egg-rich batter, and fried until just golden so the meat stays remarkably juicy and tender. Unlike the crunchy, heavily coated karaage popular nationwide, toriten is softer, lighter and less oily, and it is traditionally eaten dipped in ponzu citrus sauce sharpened with a dab of karashi mustard rather than mayonnaise. The result is savoury, fragrant and surprisingly delicate, a dish that reveals why Oita people are so protective of it.

At Toyotsune the toriten teishoku set is the star: a generous plate of freshly fried chicken with rice, miso soup, pickles and small side dishes, all at an honest price that has kept the restaurant packed with locals and visitors alike for decades. The kitchen also offers other Oita favourites, including seafood rice bowls, and portions are hearty. Because the batter is best straight from the fryer, the chicken arrives hot and crisp, and the turnover is fast enough that freshness is guaranteed.

The atmosphere is unpretentious and welcoming, a proper local eatery rather than a tourist showcase, with counter and table seating and a steady lunchtime bustle. Its proximity to the station makes it a natural first or last meal in Beppu, easy to slot in around onsen visits and sightseeing. There are several branches around the city, but the ekimae location is the most convenient for travellers.

Toriten's history is tied to Oita's culture of thrift and abundance: chicken was an accessible protein, and the tempura technique kept it moist and satisfying. Today it appears on menus across the prefecture and even in supermarket delis, but eating it freshly fried at a dedicated specialist like Toyotsune is a different experience entirely, one that lets you appreciate the balance of crisp exterior and succulent interior at its best.

Come at lunch or early evening to avoid the busiest rush, and don't over-sauce the chicken; a light touch of ponzu and mustard is how it is meant to be enjoyed. English support is limited but the picture-friendly sets make ordering easy, and the value is excellent. For anyone wanting to understand Beppu and Oita through their food rather than just their hot springs, a plate of golden, juicy toriten at Toyotsune is an essential and thoroughly delicious stop.