Muryoko-in Temple

Muryoko-in is one of Mount Koya's most approachable shukubo, a temple lodging with a long-standing reputation for welcoming foreign guests and inviting them into the actual practice of Shingon Buddhism rather than leaving them to observe from the edges. For many travellers it is the temple where an overnight stay on the sacred mountain turns from sightseeing into something more personal.

The centrepiece of that experience is Ajikan, a form of esoteric meditation particular to the Shingon school. Each morning the temple invites guests to sit before an image of the Sanskrit syllable "A," painted within a lunar disc, and to breathe and concentrate on it as a gateway to realising the fundamental nature of all things. A resident monk explains the method simply and patiently, so that even complete beginners can take part. Practised in the stillness of a temple hall at dawn, with incense drifting and the mountain silent outside, it is a genuinely memorable introduction to a living contemplative tradition, and a rare chance to do more than merely watch.

Beyond the meditation, Muryoko-in offers the classic rhythm of a Koya temple stay. Guests are accommodated in tatami rooms and served shojin ryori, the exquisite vegetarian Buddhist cuisine that has been perfected here over more than a thousand years, featuring seasonal vegetables, several preparations of tofu, mountain pickles and the celebrated local goma-dofu, or sesame tofu. Meals are taken early and the evening is quiet, given over to rest, a hot bath and reflection.

The daily morning service, held around 6:30, brings guests into the main hall for sutra chanting and, on many days, a goma fire ceremony in which wooden prayer sticks are consigned to a ritual flame that symbolises burning away human desire. The combination of the fire ritual and the Ajikan session makes a morning at Muryoko-in unusually rich in genuine practice.

The temple's central location is a further advantage. From here it is a short, pleasant walk to Kongobuji, the head temple of the sect with its vast rock garden; to Danjo Garan, the sacred core of the mountain dominated by the towering vermilion Konpon Daito pagoda; and to the Reihokan museum, home to many of Koya's finest national-treasure sculptures and paintings. Buses to Okunoin and the Daimon gate pass nearby, putting the entire World Heritage landscape within comfortable reach.

To reach Muryoko-in, take the Nankai cable car up to Koyasan Station and a Rinkan bus into the central temple district near Senjuinbashi or Karukayado; the temple is a short walk from the stop. A one-night stay including the two vegetarian meals typically starts around 12,000 yen per person, with the morning meditation offered to guests. As everywhere on the mountain, advance booking is recommended, especially during the cherry-blossom and autumn-foliage seasons. For travellers who want to leave Mount Koya having actually meditated in a Shingon temple, rather than simply having slept in one, Muryoko-in is an ideal choice.