Mihonoseki Lighthouse (Cape Jizozaki)

Mihonoseki Lighthouse stands at the very tip of Cape Jizozaki, the easternmost point of the Shimane Peninsula, where the land breaks off into the open Sea of Japan. Completed in 1898, it is the oldest stone-built lighthouse in the San'in region and was chosen as one of the world's one hundred most historic lighthouses. Its dignified fourteen-metre white tower rises from a rocky headland that forms part of Daisen-Oki National Park, one of the most dramatic stretches of coastline in western Japan.

The setting is pure sea and sky. From the grassy clifftop around the lighthouse the horizon stretches almost unbroken, and on a clear day the low, blue silhouette of the Oki Islands can be made out far to the north. Below, waves work at the volcanic rock of the cape, and gulls and black kites ride the updrafts. Because the point faces east and north, it is a fine place to watch the light change across the water through the day, from crisp morning clarity to the warm glow of late afternoon.

The lighthouse itself is not climbable, but the real attraction is the walk and the panorama. A short, level path runs from the car park through low coastal scrub to a viewing area beside the tower. The handsome former keeper's quarters and office next door have been restored and now house a small cafe and buffet, where you can sit over coffee or curry with the sea filling the windows; it keeps daytime hours and typically closes on Thursdays.

Mihonoseki is steeped in history beyond the lighthouse. The old harbour town a short distance away is one of the region's most atmospheric, with the green-flagstoned Aoishidatami street and Miho Shrine, an important shrine dedicated to Ebisu, god of fishing and good fortune. Pairing the cape with a wander through the port makes for an easy, rewarding half-day.

The experience is accessible and undemanding: the final approach is a gentle stroll suitable for most visitors, with parking, restrooms and refreshments on site. Spring through autumn is the most comfortable time; winter brings strong winds and rough seas off the Sea of Japan, which are spectacular but bracing. Any clear day rewards the trip, and mornings often give the sharpest long-distance views.

Getting there takes some planning without a car. From JR Matsue Station, take an Ichibata bus bound for Mihonoseki (roughly forty-five to fifty minutes) to the Mihonoseki terminal, then continue by local community bus or taxi about ten minutes to the Jizozaki car park; from there the footpath reaches the lighthouse in a few minutes. Driving from central Matsue is simpler at around forty-five minutes, and there is also a ferry link across to Sakaiminato in Tottori. However you arrive, Cape Jizozaki delivers the feeling of standing at the edge of the country, with nothing but sea ahead.