Kankakei Gorge Ropeway (Shodoshima)

Kankakei Gorge, in the mountainous heart of Shodoshima, is widely regarded as one of the three most beautiful gorges in Japan, and the ropeway that glides over it delivers one of the finest scenic rides in the country. Formed over some 13 million years by volcanic activity and long erosion, the gorge is a dramatic landscape of sheer cliffs, jagged crags, wind-sculpted rock spires and deep ravines cloaked in forest, and it is at its jaw-dropping best when autumn sets the whole valley ablaze.

The ropeway is the star attraction. Cable cars climb from the base station up over the gorge to the summit area, and during the roughly five-minute ascent the whole sculpted landscape opens beneath and around you — layered cliffs and pinnacles plunging away, forest clinging to impossible angles, and, on a clear day, glimpses of the Seto Inland Sea shimmering in the distance. Uniquely, Kankakei's ropeway is celebrated for offering superb views in every season, but it is autumn that makes it legendary: from around mid to late November the maples turn the gorge into a cascade of crimson, orange and gold, and the ride becomes a slow float through a canyon of fire. In spring the fresh green and cherry blossom are lovely, summer brings deep verdant shade, and even winter has a stark beauty.

At the top, viewing platforms and short walking paths let you take in sweeping panoramas of the gorge and the sea, with a shop and rest area for refreshments. For those wanting a closer, more active encounter, well-maintained hiking trails, the omote (front) and ura (back) routes, wind down through the gorge itself, passing beneath the great rock formations and through the forest; walking one way and taking the ropeway the other is a rewarding way to experience Kankakei at two scales. The trails are moderate rather than gentle, so suitable footwear helps.

Kankakei's beauty has been celebrated for centuries and it is a designated Place of Scenic Beauty, drawing photographers, hikers and leaf-peepers, especially in the autumn peak when it can be busy — arriving early rewards you with quieter cars and softer light. The mountain air is cool and fresh even in summer, adding to the sense of escape.

Reaching the gorge is part of a Shodoshima adventure. Ferries run from Takamatsu Port to the island in around an hour, and from the ports a bus or rental car climbs to the ropeway base station in the interior. Allow around 90 minutes for a round-trip ride and time at the summit viewpoints, or half a day if you plan to hike one of the trails. Kankakei pairs beautifully with the island's other highlights — Olive Park, Angel Road and the Nakayama rice terraces — for a full and varied day trip from Takamatsu. Time your visit for the November foliage if you possibly can; it is one of the great autumn spectacles of western Japan.