Ichinomiya-ji (Temple 83)

Ichinomiya-ji is the 83rd temple of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage, tucked into a quiet residential neighbourhood in the Ichinomiya district about seven kilometres south of central Takamatsu. Compact and welcoming, it is an easy urban temple to reach and a good introduction to the pilgrimage for visitors who cannot tackle the mountain temples.

The temple is traditionally said to have been founded in the early 8th century and is associated with the great monks Gyoki and Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the towering figure at the heart of Shingon Buddhism and of the Shikoku pilgrimage itself. Its principal image is a seated Sho Kannon, a form of the bodhisattva of compassion. For much of its history Ichinomiya-ji existed as the Buddhist counterpart to the adjacent Tamura Shrine, the two functioning as a combined religious institution in the syncretic tradition that fused Shinto and Buddhism for over a thousand years. The forced separation of the two faiths in the Meiji era split the complex, and Ichinomiya-ji became an independent temple — which is why the two sites still sit almost side by side today.

The grounds are modest but atmospheric. A tiled-roof main hall and Daishi hall face a swept gravel courtyard, framed by pines and seasonal blossom. Pilgrims in white vests move through the familiar rituals: washing at the water basin, lighting incense and candles, chanting the Heart Sutra before each hall, and finally receiving the temple's calligraphic stamp in their pilgrimage book at the nokyo office. A notable feature is a small stone worship stupa, a Muromachi-period cultural asset, that speaks to the site's long history.

Because it lies on flat ground within the city, Ichinomiya-ji is one of the more accessible pilgrimage temples, with parking and restrooms and a short, level walk from Kotoden's Ichinomiya Station. This makes it popular with day visitors and bus pilgrims alike, though it rarely feels crowded. The best time to come is a spring morning, when cherry trees soften the courtyard and the light is gentle, or a crisp autumn day.

For travellers building a half-day itinerary, Ichinomiya-ji pairs naturally with Tamura Shrine immediately to the north — visiting both lets you see how Buddhism and Shinto once shared a single sacred ground, and how the 1868 separation reshaped Japanese religious life. From here it is a short hop back to central Takamatsu and Ritsurin Garden, making the pair an easy addition to a city day.

As with every stop on the route, remember that Ichinomiya-ji is a living temple. Ohenro pilgrims come with genuine devotion, so keep your visit quiet and respectful, avoid photographing people at prayer without asking, and take a moment to appreciate the centuries of footsteps that have worn these stones smooth. Allow around 40 minutes to see the halls, the stupa and the neighbouring shrine at an unhurried pace.