Udon Baka Ichidai

Udon Baka Ichidai — the name playfully translates as something like 'udon fool for life' — is one of the most popular udon shops within Takamatsu city itself, and it has earned a devoted following both locally and among travellers thanks to a single inventive dish that reimagines a Sanuki classic. While the prefecture's rural shops guard tradition, Ichidai leans into creativity, and its signature 'kama-butter-tama' udon has become something of a viral sensation: hot, freshly boiled noodles tossed at the table with a pat of butter, a raw egg, coarse black pepper, and a splash of the shop's dashi soy. The heat of the noodles melts the butter and gently cooks the egg into a glossy, savoury sauce that clings to every strand — in effect, a Japanese carbonara built on Kagawa's springy wheat noodles.

The result is rich, comforting, and unexpectedly moreish, and it exemplifies how Sanuki udon culture, for all its reverence, keeps evolving. The base noodles are excellent in their own right: firm, glossy, and elastic with the prized 'koshi' bite that comes from good wheat, soft water, and careful kneading. Alongside the famous butter version, the shop serves the full spectrum of styles — kake in hot dashi, cold bukkake, kamaage with a dipping broth, and plain kamatama — plus a counter of tempura toppings to pile on, from shrimp and vegetables to chikuwa fish cake and soft-boiled egg.

Unlike the paddy-side shops scattered across the countryside, Ichidai sits conveniently within Takamatsu, near the Hanazono area, and keeps famously long hours, opening early in the morning for those who like to start the day with a bowl. That accessibility, combined with its photogenic signature dish, means it frequently draws a queue, particularly at lunch and on weekends; arriving in the morning or slightly off-peak is the smart move.

Eating here offers a nice counterpoint to a tour of Kagawa's traditional udon shops. Where the rural stands are about purity and ritual, Ichidai is about warmth, comfort, and a bit of fun, and its central location makes it easy to combine with the city's main sights — Ritsurin Garden, the long covered shopping arcades, and ferries to the Seto Inland Sea art islands are all close at hand.

The shop is reached on foot from Kotoden Hanazono Station or by a short taxi ride from JR Takamatsu Station; the private Kotoden line is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass, but the city centre is an easy JR hub. For visitors who want to taste both the tradition and the playful modern edge of Kagawa's udon obsession, a bowl of Ichidai's buttery, black-peppered kama-butter-tama is an essential — and thoroughly satisfying — stop.