Goryokaku Tower

Goryokaku Tower is a 107-metre observation tower standing beside the Goryokaku fort, purpose-built to solve a peculiar problem: the star-shaped citadel is so large and low that its distinctive five-pointed geometry is impossible to appreciate from the ground. From the tower's observation deck the entire star spreads out below in perfect clarity, making the ascent the single best way to understand what makes Goryokaku special.

The present tower opened in 2006, replacing an earlier, shorter tower from 1964 that had served the same purpose for decades. Its design nods to the fort it overlooks, with a star-shaped cross-section and viewing platforms that rise well above the surrounding trees. Fast elevators whisk visitors to the twin observation floors near the top in moments.

What to see is, first and foremost, the fort. Looking down, the moats and earthwork ramparts trace their crisp five-pointed outline, and interpretive panels help visitors read the layout and its military logic. Beyond the fort the view extends across the whole of Hakodate: the city grid, the harbour, Mount Hakodate rising at the peninsula's tip, and on clear days the mountains of the Oshima region and the sea beyond. The observation floors include a section of glass floor where you can stand and look straight down, a small thrill for those with a head for heights.

The tower also serves as a museum of the fort's dramatic past. A series of detailed dioramas and displays inside recount the story of Goryokaku, from its construction to defend the newly opened port, through the Boshin War and the short-lived Republic of Ezo, to the final 1869 battle that ended the samurai era. A statue of the Shinsengumi commander Hijikata Toshizo, who died in the fighting near here, stands as a focal point, and his heroic image is woven through the tower's exhibits and souvenirs. This blend of viewpoint and history museum makes the tower more than a simple observation deck.

The most spectacular time to ascend is cherry-blossom season. When the fort's roughly 1,600 cherry trees bloom in late April and early May, the view from the tower transforms into a glowing pink star traced along the ramparts and moats, one of the most striking hanami sights in Hokkaido. Autumn brings warm foliage colour to the same view, and in winter the snow-lined star and evening illuminations offer their own beauty.

The visiting experience is quick, comfortable and family-friendly, usually taking around forty-five minutes. An admission fee applies for the observation deck, while the fort grounds below remain free. The tower base holds a spacious atrium with restaurants, cafés and shops selling Hakodate specialities and Shinsengumi-themed souvenirs, and everything is fully accessible by elevator. Combining the tower with a walk through the fort itself makes for a satisfying half-day, ideally tower-first for the overview, then a ground-level stroll of the ramparts.

Getting there matches the route to the fort. From JR Hakodate Station take the historic city tram Line 2 to Goryokaku-koen-mae, then walk about fifteen minutes to the tower, which is unmistakable on the fort's edge. Buses also run directly from the station in around twenty minutes. IC cards are accepted on the tram and buses, so no exact change is needed for the journey.