Tenkatsu

Tenkatsu is a Takamatsu institution and one of the most atmospheric places in the city to eat the seafood of the Seto Inland Sea. Founded in the early twentieth century, it is best known for a single, theatrical piece of design: a large circular counter built around a moat of flowing water in which live fish swim. Diners sit at the ring, watching sea bream, yellowtail, flounder, and shrimp circle beneath them, and order their sashimi to be netted out and sliced on the spot. It is dinner and spectacle at once, and it has made Tenkatsu a destination for visitors wanting the freshest possible taste of the Inland Sea.

The waters between Shikoku and Honshu are famously rich, their strong tidal currents producing firm, flavourful fish prized across Japan. Kagawa is particularly associated with hamachi (young yellowtail), and the prefecture is credited as a pioneer of yellowtail aquaculture; at Tenkatsu it is a star of the menu, served as glistening sashimi that is sweet, buttery, and impeccably fresh. Sea bream (tai), a fish celebrated in the region and central to local celebrations, is another highlight, along with seasonal shrimp, octopus, and whatever the day's catch brings. Beyond sashimi, the kitchen prepares grilled and simmered fish, tempura, and set meals, so the restaurant suits both a quick lunch and a leisurely dinner.

What elevates Tenkatsu above a simple seafood restaurant is the sense of place. Kagawa's identity is inseparable from the Seto Inland Sea — its islands, its light, its fishing culture — and few meals connect you to that so directly as watching your fish plucked live from the water at the counter. The circular design also encourages a companionable, communal atmosphere, with chefs working in the centre of the ring and diners looking on.

The restaurant sits in the Hyogomachi district in the heart of central Takamatsu, close to the covered shopping arcades and an easy walk from Kotoden Kawaramachi Station, making it a natural evening stop after a day exploring the city, Ritsurin Garden, or the nearby art islands. It pairs well with sake or a cold beer, and while it can be busy, especially in the evening, the counter seats are worth waiting for.

For travellers building a picture of Kagawa's food beyond its famous udon, Tenkatsu rounds out the story with the other half of the local table: superb, ultra-fresh seafood from one of Japan's most storied stretches of coast. The private Kotoden line that serves the area is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass, but Takamatsu is a straightforward JR hub, and the short walk from the station arcades leads straight to one of the most memorable — and delicious — dining rooms on Shikoku.