Shirakoma Pond

Shirakoma Pond lies high on the flank of Mount Kita-Yatsugatake, cradled at an elevation of about 2,100 metres in one of the most enchanting old-growth forests in Japan. It is the largest natural lake in the country found above 2,000 metres, and its water is famously clear, with visibility reaching several metres through the cold, still depths. Surrounded by a primeval forest of Hinoki cypress, fir and spruce whose floor is carpeted with more than 480 varieties of moss, the pond has an almost otherworldly, fairytale atmosphere that has long drawn hikers, photographers and nature lovers into the mountains of the Yachiho highland.

The forest is the real marvel. So rich and pristine is its moss cover that the area has been recognised as one of Japan's most important mossy landscapes, and the deep green cushions draping the rocks, fallen logs and tree roots create a soft, luminous world that feels untouched by time. The interplay of filtered light, ancient conifers and glistening moss is frequently compared to the enchanted woods of animated films, and walking the trails here it is easy to see why. The cool, damp mountain air and the hush of the high forest add to the sense of stepping into another realm.

Reaching the pond is refreshingly easy for such a high and remote-feeling place. From the trailhead near the Mugikusa Pass, a well-trodden path leads through the forest to the shore in about 15 minutes, and a gentle loop trail circles the water in roughly 45 minutes to an hour, with boardwalks over the wetter ground. The walking is easy enough for families and casual hikers, though sturdy shoes are wise, and the loop reveals ever-changing views of the pond reflecting the surrounding trees and, on clear days, the peaks of the Yatsugatake range. For the more ambitious, longer trails climb on toward the higher summits of Kita-Yatsugatake, and mountain huts near the pond offer refreshments and overnight lodging.

The seasons transform the scene. Early summer brings vivid fresh green to the moss and new leaves; autumn sets the hardwoods among the conifers ablaze with colour that reflects in the mirror-still water; and even the shoulder seasons have their own quiet beauty. The altitude keeps the air cool and comfortable through the summer, a welcome escape from the lowland heat, though it also means weather can shift quickly and warm layers are advisable.

Shirakoma Pond sits in the Yachiho Kogen area of Sakuho, in eastern Nagano. Most visitors arrive by car via the scenic Mugikusa Pass road, where there is parking near the trailhead; in season, buses run from Yachiho Station on the JR Koumi Line, and connections are possible from the wider Yatsugatake and Karuizawa region. For anyone who loves forests, mountain water and the singular beauty of moss, Shirakoma Pond is one of the true hidden gems of the Japanese highlands.