Maruya Honten Nagoya Station

Maruya Honten is one of Nagoya's best-loved eel restaurants and, thanks to its branch in the Esca underground mall beside Nagoya Station, one of the most convenient places to try the city's signature hitsumabushi. Where the historic Atsuta Horaiken rewards a pilgrimage across town, Maruya's Station location is built for travellers: it is a three-minute indoor walk from the shinkansen platforms, making it ideal for a proper Nagoya meal on a tight itinerary or between connections.

Maruya charcoal-grills its eel to a deep, glossy finish, brushing it repeatedly with a house tare sauce that is a touch sweeter and smokier than some rivals. The eel is chopped and laid over rice in the traditional ohitsu tub, and the dish is eaten in the classic hitsumabushi three-way ritual. First you taste a portion of the eel and rice on its own to appreciate the caramelised, crisp-edged fillet. Then you mix in the condiments provided — nori, wasabi and spring onion — for a sharper, fresher bite. Finally you pour the accompanying hot dashi over the rice to make ochazuke, transforming it into a soothing, brothy finish. A card at the table walks first-timers through the steps, and staff are used to explaining.

The quality is high and consistent, with plump, well-rendered eel and rice cooked to hold the sauce. Set meals include liver soup, pickles and often a small side, and there are smaller and larger portions depending on appetite and budget. Because good eel is not cheap, hitsumabushi is a mid-to-upper-range meal everywhere in the city, and Maruya is priced accordingly, but the experience and convenience justify it for most visitors.

The Esca mall itself is a compact food and souvenir arcade dedicated largely to Nagoya specialties, so even the walk in builds the mood: you pass misokatsu, tebasaki, kishimen and miso-nikomi-udon shops on the way. This concentration of Nagoya meshi under one roof, directly attached to the station, is why Esca is a favourite of both hurried travellers and locals grabbing a hometown meal before a trip.

Because of its prime location, the Station area branches of Maruya are popular and can queue at peak lunch and dinner, so arriving slightly before noon or in the mid-afternoon lull makes for a smoother visit. Reservations are generally not taken for walk-in station dining, but turnover is steady. Luggage is easy to manage here, another point in its favour for those in transit.

For anyone with only a few hours in Nagoya — a common situation given the city's position on the Tokaido shinkansen between Tokyo and Kyoto-Osaka — Maruya Honten offers the essential hitsumabushi experience without straying from the station. It is proof that you do not need a long detour to eat Nagoya's most celebrated dish properly, and it makes a memorable, region-specific alternative to the usual station bento.