Kujukushima (Ninety-Nine Islands)

Kujukushima, the 'Ninety-Nine Islands', is a breathtaking archipelago of small, forested islands scattered across the sea off the western coast of Sasebo in northern Nagasaki Prefecture. The name suggests ninety-nine, an old Japanese way of saying 'countless', but in fact there are 208 islands, most of them tiny, uninhabited, and cloaked in green, rising from a shimmering sea in one of the densest concentrations of islands anywhere in Japan. The area forms the core of the Saikai National Park, and its intricate seascape of coves, channels, and emerald islets is among the most beautiful in all of Kyushu.

There are two classic ways to experience Kujukushima, and the ideal visit combines them. The first is from above: several hilltop viewpoints, notably the Tenkaiho and Ishidake overlooks, provide sweeping aerial panoramas of the islands strewn across the water like stepping stones, a view that is especially magical at sunset when the sea turns to molten gold and the islands become dark silhouettes. The Ishidake overlook is so photogenic it has featured in film. The second way is from the water: sightseeing boats depart from the Pearl Sea Resort, weaving among the nearest islands and revealing the scale and beauty of the archipelago up close, with pearl and oyster rafts, sea eagles, and the ever-changing perspectives of the passing islets. Sunset cruises are particularly popular.

The Pearl Sea Resort at the gateway to the islands is a hub of activity, home to the departure point for the cruises, the Umikirara aquarium showcasing the marine life of the local waters, and kayaking and other marine activities that let more adventurous visitors paddle among the islands themselves. The name reflects the pearl cultivation that has long been practised in these sheltered, nutrient-rich waters. Restaurants and shops here serve the fresh seafood for which Sasebo is known, and the resort makes a comfortable base for a half-day or more.

Kujukushima is beautiful year-round, its green islands and blue sea attractive in every season, though clear days naturally show the seascape at its best, and calm weather makes for smoother cruises. The viewpoints are accessible by car or bus and are free, while the cruises and aquarium charge admission. Because the appeal is essentially scenic and marine, the experience suits all ages and fitness levels, from a gentle boat ride to an energetic sea-kayak among the islets.

Getting to Kujukushima is straightforward. Sasebo is reached by train from Nagasaki or Hakata in Fukuoka, and from Sasebo Station local buses run out to the Pearl Sea Resort in around twenty-five minutes, with other buses or a car serving the hilltop viewpoints. The area combines easily with Sasebo's other famous attraction, the Dutch-themed Huis Ten Bosch resort, and with the wider Saikai coast. For travellers venturing into northern Nagasaki, the shimmering island-studded seascape of Kujukushima, whether admired from a sunset cruise or a hilltop at dusk, is a genuinely unforgettable highlight of Kyushu's coast.