Kirifuri Falls

Kirifuri Falls is one of Nikko's three most celebrated waterfalls, alongside Kegon and Urami, and arguably the most delicate of the trio. Its name means falling mist, and it earns it: the water descends in two tiers for a total of about 75 metres, and as it drops it strikes the rocks and scatters into a fine, drifting spray that hangs in the air like mist. The upper tier falls around 25 metres and the lower around 26 metres, separated by a rocky shelf, giving the fall a graceful, layered profile rather than a single powerful plunge.

Set in forested hills on the eastern side of Nikko, away from the main shrine crowds, Kirifuri has a peaceful, intimate feel. An observation deck faces the falls across a small wooded valley, framing them beautifully. Because the volume varies with rainfall, the falls are at their most impressive after rain or during the snowmelt of spring, when the flow is strong and the misting effect most pronounced. In drier spells the twin ribbons are more slender but still elegant.

Autumn is the classic time to visit. In late October the maples cloaking the valley turn brilliant shades of red, orange and yellow, and the white water threading through the colour makes Kirifuri a favourite of local photographers and leaf-peepers. Summer offers cool, green shade and a refreshing walk, while winter can dress the surrounding rocks in ice and snow. The falls have long inspired artists - the great ukiyo-e master Katsushika Hokusai depicted them in his famous series of waterfall prints.

Reaching the falls is easy and quick. A short, mostly downhill forest path from the bus stop and car park leads in about ten minutes to the observation deck; note that you view the falls from across the valley rather than at their base, so the vantage is a framed, postcard-like scene. The surrounding Kirifuri Kogen highland area offers further walking, meadows and seasonal flowers, plus cafes and an ice-cream stand known locally, making it a pleasant half-day outing.

Kirifuri sits within the greater Nikko National Park landscape but is far more accessible than the Okunikko highlands, making it a good choice when time is short or the higher mountains are snowbound. It pairs well with the UNESCO shrines and Kanmangafuchi Abyss in central Nikko, all reachable without the long climb up the Irohazaka road.

To get there, take a Tobu bus from Tobu-Nikko Station bound for Kirifuri Kogen and alight at the Kirifuri-no-taki stop, about a 20-minute ride. From there the forest path descends to the viewing deck in around ten minutes; drivers will find a car park at the trailhead. Time your visit for after rain if you can, and for late October if you want the falls framed by their finest autumn colour.