Godaido Hall

Godaido is the enduring symbol of Matsushima, a small but exquisite wooden hall perched on a tiny island just off the bay-front and reached by a pair of vivid red bridges. Though modest in size, it appears on countless photographs and posters of the region, its dark timber and graceful roof set against the pine-covered islets and shimmering water of one of the Three Views of Japan.

The hall's history is intertwined with the founding of the region's spiritual life. It was first established in 807 by the general Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, who enshrined here the Godai Myoo, the Five Great Wisdom Kings, fierce protective deities of esoteric Buddhism from whom the hall takes its name. The structure standing today, however, was rebuilt in 1604 by Date Masamune as part of his revival of Matsushima's temples alongside the great Zuiganji nearby. That makes it the oldest surviving Momoyama-period building in the Tohoku region, and its carved details, including the twelve zodiac animals adorning the eaves, reward a close look.

The sacred statues of the Five Wisdom Kings housed within are shown to the public only once every thirty-three years, so on most visits the appeal lies in the hall's exterior, its setting, and the atmospheric journey to reach it. That journey is part of the experience. The bridges linking the islet to the mainland include the famous sukashibashi, a 'see-through' bridge whose slatted planks leave gaps that reveal the sea rippling below. It was built this way on purpose, to make worshippers tread carefully and compose their minds before approaching the sacred hall, a small piece of spiritual design that still works today.

From the islet, the views back across Matsushima Bay are lovely, especially in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon when the low sun gilds the water and silhouettes the pines. Photographers prize the spot, and it is a wonderful place to simply stand, feel the sea breeze, and take in the scenery that has inspired poets and painters for centuries, most famously the haiku master Matsuo Basho.

Because Godaido sits right on the Matsushima waterfront, it slots effortlessly into a day exploring the area. Pair it with the magnificent Zuiganji temple and its National Treasure halls, the rose gardens and mausoleum of Entsuin, the little garden island of Fukuurajima reached by a long footbridge, and a relaxing sightseeing cruise among the bay's scattered islets.

Getting here could hardly be easier. Take the JR Senseki Line to Matsushima-Kaigan Station, covered by the Japan Rail Pass, and stroll about six minutes along the shore to the bridges. There is no admission charge, and the exterior and islet are accessible at any hour, making Godaido a favorite for early risers chasing the sunrise. Allow around twenty-five minutes to cross the bridges, circle the hall, and soak in the views. Compact, historic, and effortlessly photogenic, Godaido distills the quiet beauty of Matsushima into a single perfect scene.