Bunka Yokocho

Bunka Yokocho, affectionately shortened by locals to Bunyoko, is one of Sendai's most cherished and atmospheric old alleys, a narrow covered passage of tiny bars and eateries that has preserved the drinking culture of the Showa era almost intact. Tucked between the streets on the edge of the Kokubuncho entertainment district and the Ichibancho shopping area, it is a genuine time capsule, and for those who seek it out it offers one of the most authentic and intimate nights out in the whole city.

The alley dates back to the decades after the Second World War, and unlike much of the surrounding downtown it has never been swept away by redevelopment. Its passage is lined with minuscule establishments, many with just a handful of counter seats, where the same regulars and family proprietors have gathered for generations. The atmosphere is dim, close and deeply nostalgic, thick with the character of an older Japan: hand-lettered signs, worn wooden counters, the smell of grilling food and the low hum of conversation among people who have known each other for years. It is even more of a step back in time than the nearby Iroha Yokocho, and locals treasure it precisely for that unchanged quality.

Bunka Yokocho comes into its own in the evening, when its tiny bars and diners light their lanterns and fill with drinkers. Squeezing onto a stool at a counter barely wide enough for a few patrons, sharing a drink and a plate of simple food with the owner and whoever else has wandered in, is an experience of real warmth and informality. Each little bar has its own personality and loyal following, and part of the pleasure is choosing a doorway, ducking under the curtain and seeing where the evening leads. This is not polished nightlife but something more human and rooted, the kind of place where strangers easily fall into conversation.

The alley's setting on the fringe of Kokubuncho, Tohoku's largest entertainment and nightlife district, makes it a natural part of an evening out in central Sendai, offering a quieter, more old-fashioned counterpoint to the brighter bars and clubs nearby. Being covered, it is comfortable in any weather, and its small scale means it can be explored on foot in a relaxed wander punctuated by stops for a drink or a bite.

Getting there is easy. The Sendai Subway Tozai Line's Aoba-dori Ichibancho Station lies a short walk away, and the alley is within comfortable walking distance of the main arcades and Sendai Station. Because its businesses are overwhelmingly bars and small eateries, Bunka Yokocho is very much an evening destination; during the day it is largely shuttered and quiet, so the time to come is after dark when the lanterns glow and the counters fill.

For travellers wanting to drink and eat where Sendai's older generation still does, in surroundings that have scarcely changed in half a century, Bunka Yokocho is a gem. It rewards the curious with genuine Showa atmosphere, tiny characterful bars and the easy conviviality of counter-side company. Come in the evening, be willing to step through an unfamiliar doorway, and you will find one of the most memorable and authentic corners of the city.