Tsukigase Bairin

Tsukigase Bairin is one of Japan's most celebrated plum-blossom groves, spread across the steep slopes of a river gorge in the Tsukigase district at the far eastern edge of Nara city. For centuries the valley of the Nabari River here has been planted with plum trees, and when they bloom in the cold weeks of late winter, thousands of white and pale-pink blossoms cover the hillsides and fill the gorge with their sweet fragrance, drawing visitors from across the Kansai region. Because it celebrates plum rather than cherry, Tsukigase reaches its peak weeks before the more famous sakura season, offering an early and quieter taste of spring.

The grove has a long history. Plum trees were reputedly cultivated in this valley from the medieval period, partly for their blossom and partly because the fruit and the flowers had practical and ceremonial uses; the ume of Tsukigase became renowned enough that the district gave its name to the scenic spot. In recognition of its cultural and scenic value the area has been designated a national Place of Scenic Beauty. At its height the grove was said to contain tens of thousands of trees terraced along the slopes above the river; even today several thousand plums bloom here each year, making it one of the largest plum landscapes in western Japan.

A visit centres on walking. Paths and lanes wind up and along the gorge, linking viewpoints that look down over the blossoming slopes to the green river below, with the surrounding hills forming a natural amphitheatre. During the plum festival, held roughly from mid-February to late March depending on the season's warmth, the area comes alive with food stalls selling local specialities, and small shops offer plum products such as pickled ume, plum wine and sweets. Outside the blossom season the valley is a peaceful rural landscape of tea fields, forest and river, pleasant for a quiet country walk but without the crowds or the spectacle.

The blossom itself is the reason to make the journey. On a mild, sunny day at the end of February the combination of massed white and pink flowers, the scent carried on the air and the backdrop of the river gorge is genuinely memorable, and photographers prize the layered views of blossom, water and hills. The timing shifts a little each year with the weather, so it is worth checking bloom reports before travelling.

Tsukigase does require more effort to reach than the central Nara sights, and that is part of why it stays relatively unspoiled. It lies in the mountainous far east of Nara city near the borders with Mie and Kyoto prefectures. Public transport involves taking the JR Kansai Main Line to Tsukigase-guchi Station and then a bus or a long uphill walk into the grove; during the festival, seasonal bus services make access easier, but travelling by car is the most straightforward option. Allow a good part of a day for the round trip.

For travellers in Nara in late winter or very early spring, Tsukigase Bairin offers something the temple-filled city centre cannot: a whole valley given over to plum blossom, fragrant, expansive and steeped in centuries of tradition.