Rinno-ji Temple

Rinno-ji is the most important Buddhist temple in Nikko and, together with Toshogu and Futarasan shrines, forms the UNESCO World Heritage complex that draws visitors from around the world. Its founding is traced to the monk Shodo Shonin, who established a hermitage here in the year 766 after (legend says) crossing the Daiya River on the backs of two giant serpents. For over a thousand years the temple has been the spiritual heart of Nikko's mountain worship, blending Buddhism with the reverence of the surrounding sacred peaks.

The temple's centrepiece is the Sanbutsudo, the largest wooden building in eastern Japan, which houses three colossal gold-lacquered statues. These represent the Buddhist manifestations of Nikko's three sacred mountains: a thousand-armed Kannon for Mount Nantai, Amida Buddha for Mount Nyoho, and a horse-headed Kannon (Bato Kannon) for Mount Taro. Standing more than eight metres tall and glowing in the dim hall, they are among the most impressive Buddhist images in the country. The Sanbutsudo underwent a major decade-long restoration completed in 2019, and its bright new roof and interior gleam once more.

A short walk away lies Shoyoen, an exquisite Edo-period strolling garden arranged around a central pond, with stone lanterns, arched bridges and carefully placed maples that turn brilliant scarlet in November. Adjacent is the Treasure House (Homotsuden), which displays temple relics, painted screens and Buddhist art. Also part of Rinno-ji, though set apart within the complex, is Taiyuinbyo, the mausoleum of the third shogun Iemitsu, and the Jogyodo and Hokkedo twin halls linked by a corridor.

Visiting Rinno-ji is a calmer counterpoint to the dazzling Toshogu next door. The Sanbutsudo can be entered to view the statues up close, and monks are often present. Because it sits right at the entrance to the World Heritage precinct, it is easy to combine with Toshogu and Futarasan on a single half-day, and the various sub-sites can be bought individually or on a combination ticket.

The temple is largely accessible on level paved paths, though entering the Sanbutsudo involves removing your shoes and climbing a few steps. Morning light is best for the halls, while late afternoon in autumn flatters the garden. Spring cherry blossom and the deep reds of the maples make November the most photogenic month.

Nikko lies about two hours north of Tokyo. JR Pass holders take the shinkansen to Utsunomiya and the JR Nikko Line onward; others use the direct Tobu line from Asakusa. From either station the World Heritage sightseeing bus reaches the Omotesando stop in around ten minutes, leaving a short walk to the temple gate.