Hakone Shrine Torii of Peace

The Torii of Peace, or Heiwa no Torii, is arguably the single most photographed spot in all of Hakone: a tall vermilion gate standing directly in the waters of Lake Ashi, its reflection shimmering on the surface with the wooded slopes of the caldera rising behind. It belongs to Hakone Shrine, whose main hall sits hidden in the cedar forest just up the hill, and it marks the sacred boundary between the everyday world and the shrine's spiritual precinct. On a clear, still morning the gate frames a view across the lake toward distant Mount Fuji, creating the kind of scene that has come to symbolise Japan itself.

The torii was erected in 1952 to commemorate the signing of the San Francisco Peace Treaty and Crown Prince Akihito's coming of age, which is how it earned its name. It replaced earlier gates and quickly became a place of pilgrimage and, in the social-media age, a magnet for photographers from around the world. A small wooden jetty extends toward the gate, and it is from the end of this platform that the classic photograph is taken, with the visitor standing beneath the towering vermilion pillars and the mirror-flat lake stretching away behind.

Hakone Shrine, to which the torii belongs, was founded in 757 during the Nara period and has long been revered by travellers, samurai, and pilgrims crossing the mountains along the old Tokaido road. Warlords including Minamoto no Yoritomo prayed here for victory, and the shrine remains an active place of worship today. A visit combines naturally with the walk up the stone steps through the ancient cedar avenue to the vermilion main hall, where the forest canopy filters the light into a hushed green glow.

The experience at the torii itself has changed in recent years because of its popularity. On weekends and during autumn foliage season the queue for a photograph beneath the gate can stretch to an hour or more, with a volunteer often managing the line. Those who want the serene, empty image that made the spot famous should arrive at first light, ideally just after dawn, when the lake is calm, the air is clear, and the crowds have yet to gather. Early morning also offers the best chance of catching Mount Fuji before cloud builds over its summit.

The torii sits on the southern shore of Lake Ashi, an easy eight-minute walk along the lakeside promenade from Moto-Hakone Port, where the sightseeing cruise boats and pirate ships dock. The whole area is covered by the Hakone Freepass, and the gate makes a natural pairing with a lake cruise, a climb to the shrine, and a stroll along the nearby avenue of centuries-old cedars that line the old highway. Sunset also brings lovely soft light, when the vermilion of the gate glows warmly against the darkening water.