Futarasan Chugushi Shrine

Futarasan Chugushi is the 'middle shrine' of the great Futarasan Shrine, standing on the northern shore of Lake Chuzenji at the very foot of Mount Nantai, the 2,486-metre volcano that has been worshipped as a deity for over a thousand years. Together with the main shrine down in Nikko town and the Okumiya inner shrine on Nantai's summit, it forms the three-tiered structure through which pilgrims have traditionally ascended from the everyday world to the sacred peak.

Founded, like so much of Nikko's sacred landscape, by the monk Shodo Shonin — who made the first recorded ascent of Mount Nantai in 782 — the Chugushi shrine marks the point where mountain worship and the beauty of the highland lake meet. Its vermilion buildings, gates and copper-roofed halls sit among tall trees with the lake glittering below and the mountain rising steeply behind, an unusually dramatic setting for a shrine. The grounds include a treasure hall displaying swords, armour and ritual objects donated over the centuries, reflecting the shrine's importance to warriors and pilgrims alike.

The shrine's most distinctive role is as the official gateway to the climb up Mount Nantai. The trail to the summit begins at a gate within the shrine precinct, and it opens only during the mountaineering season, traditionally from early May to late October; climbers register and make an offering here before setting out on the steep four-hour ascent to the Okumiya at the top. Even for those not climbing, the shrine is a rewarding place to feel the living tradition of Japanese mountain reverence.

A visit combines beautifully with the other highlights of the Okunikko highlands — the Tachiki Kannon temple, the Kegon Falls, and boat trips on Lake Chuzenji. The lakeside location makes it especially lovely in autumn, when the surrounding slopes blaze with early koyo in mid to late October thanks to the high elevation, and in summer, when the cool mountain air and clear water draw visitors escaping the heat of the plains.

The main grounds are free to enter, largely level and accessible, with parking nearby; only the treasure hall charges admission and the summit trail requires the climbing fee. Allow around forty minutes for the shrine itself, far longer if you intend to climb Nantai. Sturdy footwear and proper preparation are essential for anyone attempting the mountain.

Nikko is about two hours north of Tokyo. Japan Rail Pass holders reach it via the shinkansen to Utsunomiya and the JR Nikko Line, while the Tobu line from Asakusa runs direct. From Tobu Nikko Station, Tobu buses climb the winding Irohazaka road to Chuzenji Onsen in roughly fifty minutes, from where the shrine is a short bus ride or a pleasant walk along the lake's northern shore.