Lake Chuzenji

Lake Chuzenji sits 1,269 metres above sea level at the foot of Mount Nantai, making it one of Japan's highest large natural lakes. It was born in violence: an eruption of Nantai some 20,000 years ago sent lava flows that blocked the valley below, and the trapped waters gradually filled to form the lake we see today. That same eruption is responsible for Kegon Falls, which drains the lake over a cliff at its eastern end.

What strikes most visitors is the calm. The shoreline is largely undeveloped and forested, broken only at the eastern corner by the small hot-spring resort of Chuzenji Onsen. Because of its altitude, the area stays cool and fresh even in the height of summer, which is exactly why it became a mountain retreat. In the early 20th century Western diplomats built lakeside summer villas here to escape Tokyo's humidity, and the beautifully restored Italian and British Embassy villa memorial parks on the quieter southern shore still show off their elegant architecture and framed lake views.

The lake's rhythm follows the seasons. Summer draws hikers, campers and boaters to its cool air and clear water. Autumn is spectacular: from early to mid-October the forested slopes turn crimson and gold, mirrored on calm mornings in the still surface, and the whole basin fills with leaf-peepers. Winter is quiet and often snow-dusted, with the resort largely closing down. Spring arrives late this high up, with fresh green emerging only in May.

There are many ways to enjoy it. Sightseeing boats make a leisurely loop with stops at scenic points such as Senju-ga-hama and the villa parks. A road hugs part of the shore for drivers and cyclists, and walking trails thread the woods. Ambitious visitors climb Mount Nantai itself - a demanding but rewarding pilgrimage route that begins at the lakeside Chugushi Shrine and opens only in the warmer months. Nearby the Senjogahara marshland and a string of waterfalls extend the walking possibilities for days.

The lake anchors the Okunikko (inner Nikko) region within Nikko National Park, and pairs perfectly with Kegon Falls just a few minutes away and the shrines and temples down in the town.

To reach it, take a Tobu bus from Tobu-Nikko Station toward Chuzenji Onsen or Yumoto Onsen. The bus climbs the celebrated Irohazaka road, a series of twenty tight hairpin bends that gain altitude fast and reward passengers with sweeping valley views, especially in autumn. The trip takes roughly 50 minutes to the Chuzenji Onsen stop on the eastern shore, from where the lakefront, boat pier and Kegon Falls are all within a short walk. Allow at least half a day to do the area justice.