Takatsudo (Momiji Manju Birthplace)

Momiji manju - the maple-leaf-shaped sponge cake that is Hiroshima's most famous sweet souvenir - was invented on Miyajima in the early 1900s, and Takatsudo carries that founding lineage directly. The confection was created by wagashi artisan Takatsu Tsunesuke, who developed the maple-leaf baked manju around 1906-07 and received a patent for it in 1910. Takatsudo is the shop name tied to that original creator, and the line was revived by his descendant, giving visitors a chance to taste the sweet at its very source rather than as one of countless later imitations.

The cake itself is deceptively simple: a light, honey-tinged castella sponge baked in a cast-iron mold shaped like the momiji (Japanese maple) leaf, traditionally filled with smooth sweet red-bean paste (koshian). The maple shape was no accident - Miyajima is famous for Momijidani, the 'maple valley' whose trees blaze red in autumn, and the confection was conceived as an edible tribute to that scenery, reportedly for guests at the island's historic Iwaso inn. That origin story ties the treat to the island's landscape and makes eating one here feel connected to the place in a way a supermarket box never could.

Over the past century momiji manju has exploded into dozens of varieties - custard cream, chocolate, matcha, cheese, and the deep-fried 'agemomiji' on a stick - and it is sold by many makers all over Hiroshima and Miyajima. But tasting the classic red-bean version from the shop that traces back to the inventor is a small pilgrimage for anyone who cares about the story behind their food. Bought fresh and still warm, the sponge is fragrant and pillowy and the bean paste gently sweet, a world away from the shrink-wrapped versions sold in bulk at stations.

Beyond the flavour, momiji manju is woven into how Japan gives gifts. It is one of the country's classic omiyage - the regional souvenirs travellers bring home to family and colleagues - so a boxed set from a storied maker carries a little extra meaning. Watching the cakes being baked in their leaf-shaped irons, then buying a warm one to eat on the spot and a box to take away, is a satisfying ritual that rounds out a Miyajima visit.

Takatsudo sits on the mainland side near Miyajimaguchi, close to the station and ferry terminal, which makes it a natural stop as you begin or end an island day - pair it with a bowl of anago-meshi from the century-old Ueno shop just nearby, or save it for the way back as a treat and a gift run. To reach it, take the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi (Japan Rail Pass covered) or the Hiroden tram to its terminus, and walk a few minutes toward the waterfront. For a sweet that so many people eat without ever knowing where it came from, this is the place to meet it at its beginning.