Sandan-kyo Gorge

Deep in the mountains of northwestern Hiroshima Prefecture, within the Nishi-Chugoku Sanchi Quasi-National Park, the Sandan-kyo Gorge carves a spectacular sixteen-kilometre gash through the highlands of the town of Akiota. Its name means 'three-level gorge', a reference to the tiered Sandandaki Falls that are its most famous feature, and the ravine has been designated a Place of Scenic Beauty in recognition of its outstanding natural drama. Through it flows the clear Shibaki River, a tributary of the great Ota River that runs down to Hiroshima city, its waters pooling into deep jade-green basins between sheer rock walls.

A well-maintained walking trail follows the river along the full length of the gorge, and hiking even a portion of it is one of the most rewarding day trips in the region. The path passes a succession of named highlights: the powerful three-stage Sandandaki Falls, the graceful Nidandaki, and narrow chasms where the cliffs close in so tightly that sunlight barely reaches the water far below. In two of these constricted sections, the mysterious Kurofuchi and Sarutobi, the gorge becomes impassable on foot, and small wooden pleasure boats ferry visitors across the still, dark pools, poled or motored between walls of rock draped in moss and fern.

The gorge is beautiful in every season. Spring brings fresh green and rushing snowmelt, summer offers cool shade and the sound of cascading water, and winter can dust the cliffs with snow. But it is in autumn that Sandan-kyo truly earns its fame. From late October into mid-November the maples, beeches and other deciduous trees that cloak the slopes turn every shade of red, orange and yellow, and the colours reflect in the green pools to create scenes of extraordinary richness. It is considered one of the premier autumn-foliage destinations in western Japan, and the walking paths grow busy with leaf-viewers on fine weekends.

Walking the entire length of the gorge and back is a serious undertaking of several hours, so many visitors choose to explore the lower, most scenic section near the main entrance, where the falls and boat landings are concentrated, and turn back at a comfortable point. The terrain is mostly gentle but the path can be uneven, rooty and slippery after rain, so sturdy shoes are advisable. Seasonal food stalls and rest spots cluster near the trailhead.

Sandan-kyo lies well outside the city and is not on the rail network, so the easiest approach is by direct highway bus from central Hiroshima, which takes a little over an hour and ends near the entrance to the trail. Because it is a mountain destination the season is short and the weather can turn quickly, so check conditions before setting out and start early to allow plenty of daylight. For travellers willing to venture beyond the famous coastal sights of Hiroshima and Miyajima, Sandan-kyo offers a completely different and unforgettable side of the prefecture: wild, green and gloriously untamed.