Tsurumi Ryokuchi Park

Tsurumi Ryokuchi is one of Osaka's largest parks, spread across the eastern Tsurumi ward on the grounds that hosted the International Garden and Greenery Exposition, or Expo '90, held here from April to September 1990. The exposition's theme, the harmonious coexistence of people and nature, still shapes the park today, which combines vast lawns, woodland, ponds, barbecue and camping areas, sports fields and, above all, some of the finest horticultural attractions in the Kansai region.

The park's crown jewel is Sakuya Konohana Kan, a spectacular botanical conservatory built as a pavilion for Expo '90 and now the largest greenhouse in Japan. Under its sweeping glass roof, distinct climate zones recreate the conditions of tropical rainforests, arid deserts, high alpine meadows and even polar and dry-tropical environments, allowing visitors to walk from steaming jungle to a cool mountain flower field in a matter of steps. Its collections of orchids, water lilies, cacti and rare alpine plants make it a year-round highlight regardless of the weather outside.

Outdoors, the park is laid out for leisure on a generous scale. A landmark Dutch-style windmill presides over a seasonal flower field that turns to tulips in spring and other blooms through the year, one of Osaka's most-photographed garden scenes. Elsewhere there are Japanese and international garden areas left from the Expo, cherry trees for spring hanami, wide meadows for picnics and one of the few places within the city where families can camp and barbecue.

The visiting experience is expansive and family-friendly, mixing a relaxed nature outing with the indoor spectacle of the conservatory. Flat, wide paths make the grounds very accessible, and there is ample space to spread out even on busy weekends. Allow around two and a half hours to combine the outdoor gardens with a thorough tour of Sakuya Konohana Kan; families with children could easily stay longer.

The best time to visit is spring, when the tulip field beneath the windmill is in full bloom and the cherry trees flower, though the climate-controlled conservatory guarantees a rewarding visit in any season, including rainy or midsummer days when the outdoor parks are less comfortable.

Getting there is straightforward by subway. The Osaka Metro Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line runs directly to Tsurumi-ryokuchi Station, named for the park, from which the entrance is about a five-minute walk; the conservatory lies within the grounds. The subway is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass but accepts ICOCA and other IC cards. The park's size means it is worth checking a map on arrival to head straight for the windmill and greenhouse at its heart.