Mount Takao

Mount Takao, or Takao-san, is the great green escape on Tokyo's doorstep: a 599-metre forested mountain in the city of Hachioji, less than an hour from central Tokyo yet a world away from its concrete. Protected within the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park, it draws more than 2.5 million visitors a year — reputedly the most-climbed mountain on earth — and from its summit, on clear cold days, you look out to Mt. Fuji rising above the folded ridges of the Kanto mountains.

Eight marked trails climb the mountain, ranging from paved pilgrim paths to steeper woodland routes, so it suits everyone from families to serious hikers. The most popular is Trail 1, a paved route past the temple; the quieter Trail 6 follows a valley stream through dense forest and is a favourite in the heat of summer. If you would rather save your legs, the Takaotozan Railway runs a steep funicular and a ropeway partway up, cutting the climb to a gentle 40 minutes or so from the upper station to the top. The full hike from the base takes around 90 minutes.

About halfway up stands Takaosan Yakuoin, an atmospheric Shingon Buddhist temple founded in the 8th century and closely tied to the tengu, the long-nosed mountain spirits of Japanese folklore whose statues guard the paths. The temple, its cedar avenues and its seasonal festivals give the mountain a spiritual character that sets it apart from a simple day hike. Near the summit, a monkey park and a wild-plant garden add family appeal, and several teahouses serve tengu-yaki sweets and bowls of soba.

Takao is above all a mountain for the seasons. Late November brings the koyo, when the maples flare crimson and gold and the crowds swell to see them; spring dresses the slopes in cherry and fresh green; and the crisp, dry air of winter offers the clearest and most reliable views of Mt. Fuji from the summit and from the 'Diamond Fuji' viewpoint, where around the solstice the sun sets directly behind the peak. From the top a broad viewing platform takes in the mountain ranges and, weather permitting, the distant cone of Fuji itself.

Getting there is easy but not covered by a Japan Rail Pass: the fastest route is the Keio Takao Line from Shinjuku directly to Takaosanguchi Station, about 50 minutes and a few hundred yen, with the trailheads and cable-car station a five-minute walk from the exit. IC cards work on the Keio line. The mountain itself is free to enter around the clock; only the funicular and ropeway charge a fare. Wear proper shoes for the trails, bring water, start early on autumn weekends to beat the crowds, and check the forecast — a clear, dry day is what turns a pleasant hike into an unforgettable Fuji view.