Minoo Park

Minoo Park, properly the Meiji no Mori Minoo Quasi-National Park, is a deep, wooded river valley on the northern edge of the Osaka plain that feels a world away from the city despite being under 30 minutes from Umeda. Established as one of Japan's first quasi-national parks in 1967 to mark the centenary of the Meiji Restoration, it protects a lush gorge of maple, oak and cedar where wild monkeys, birds and insects thrive within easy reach of a metropolis of millions.

The park's headline attraction is Minoo Waterfall, a 33-metre cascade that tumbles over a rock face at the head of the valley. Its name comes from the resemblance of the falling water to a winnowing basket, or mino, once used to separate rice grain. The falls are beautiful year round, cooling and shaded in the humid Kansai summer, but they reach their fame in November, when the surrounding maples turn brilliant crimson and gold and frame the water in one of the Kansai region's most celebrated autumn scenes.

Reaching the falls is a pleasure in itself. From Mino-o Station a paved trail follows the river upstream for about 2.8 kilometres, climbing gently through the forest past temples, teahouses and souvenir stalls. The walk takes most people 40 to 45 minutes one way and is manageable in normal shoes, though the continuous incline makes it moderate rather than effortless. Along the way you pass Ryuan-ji, a temple linked to the founding of Japanese lottery, and can sample the valley's signature snack: momiji tempura, whole maple leaves candied and deep-fried in a sweet batter, sold in bags by roadside vendors who have made them here for generations.

The visiting experience is that of a gentle half-day hike rather than a formal garden. The paved path is largely accessible in its lower reaches, though the final approach to the falls has steps. Bring water in summer and be aware that the wild monkeys, while a highlight, should not be fed. Allow around two and a half hours for a relaxed return walk with time to linger at the falls.

The best time to visit is mid-to-late November for the koyo, or autumn foliage, when the valley is at its most spectacular; aim for a weekday, as weekends draw large crowds. Summer is the second-best season, when the shaded gorge and cool spray offer relief from the city heat.

Getting there requires a short train journey but no car. From central Osaka take the Hankyu Takarazuka Line and change at Ishibashi handai-mae for the short Hankyu Minoo Line to its terminus, Mino-o Station. The Hankyu network is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass but accepts ICOCA and other IC cards. From the station the trailhead is a five-minute walk, and the falls lie at the top of the valley path.