Ebisu Yokocho

Ebisu Yokocho is a lively, neon-lit indoor food alley in the fashionable Ebisu district of Tokyo, a single covered arcade crammed with around 20 tiny, individually run stalls serving an eclectic range of Japanese comfort food and drink. Occupying the site of a former shopping arcade that was reinvented as a retro dining hall in the mid-2000s, it has become one of the city's most popular and energetic spots for a sociable night of grazing and drinking, especially with young Tokyoites.

Stepping inside feels like entering a warm, boisterous time capsule. The narrow corridor is lined on both sides with small stalls, each with its own counter, tightly packed stools and colourful hand-painted signage, all bathed in the glow of red lanterns and vintage advertising. Unlike the hushed, hidden alleys of Golden Gai or Nonbei Yokocho, Ebisu Yokocho is loud, bright and buzzing, with the clatter of griddles, the calls of the cooks and the chatter of drinkers filling the air until the early hours.

The variety of food under this single roof is a big part of the appeal. Each stall specialises in something different, so a single visit can take you from fresh seafood and sashimi to sizzling teppanyaki, grilled meat and offal, oden simmering in its broth, gyoza, okonomiyaki, Korean-inspired dishes and more. Because the stalls sit side by side and many diners hop between them, it is easy and encouraged to order a few dishes from one counter, then move to another, building a progressive feast washed down with beer, highballs, sake and shochu.

The atmosphere is convivial and unpretentious. Strangers end up sharing counters and cooking smells, groups of friends and after-work colleagues spill between stalls, and the tight quarters make it a naturally social place where conversations start easily. It is this raucous, communal energy, more than any single dish, that draws people back, and it captures the spirit of the Japanese izakaya crawl condensed into one lively hall.

Being indoors, Ebisu Yokocho is a reliable choice in any weather and at any time of year, and it stays open late into the night, making it a popular first or second stop on a night out in this stylish, restaurant-rich neighbourhood. It does get very busy, particularly on Friday and Saturday nights when seats can be hard to find, so arriving earlier in the evening improves your chances of a good spot. Prices are reasonable for the area, and most stalls deal in cash, so it is wise to carry some.

Ebisu itself is one of Tokyo's most agreeable districts for eating and drinking, named after the god of good fortune and the Yebisu beer that was once brewed here, and Ebisu Yokocho makes an ideal, high-energy anchor for an evening exploring it. It is a three-minute walk from Ebisu Station on the JR Yamanote Line, covered by the Japan Rail Pass, and close to the shops and museums of Yebisu Garden Place. Come hungry, bring cash and a willingness to squeeze in among strangers, and enjoy one of Tokyo's most entertaining modern takes on the classic food alley.